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View Poll Results: Are you going to buy a set
Yes, put me down for 1 or more sets 15 36.59%
Nope, too expensive/complicated for me to consider 10 24.39%
On the fence about it. 16 39.02%
Voters: 41. You may not vote on this poll

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Unread 10-10-2009, 08:58 PM   #61
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There is one retired cam specialist in Finland who still does some work when he feels like it. He did my S3 set and probably could do others as long as he can do them at his own speed without any fixed deadline. Price was around $500 and work excellent quality.
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Unread 10-11-2009, 12:34 PM   #62
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Jim,

They are based off S3 cams which should be 114 deg LSA.

This will give better idle and drivability for big cams, yet not decrease max power figures. It does take off a tiny bit of availible midrange power though.

Greg Brown seems to think that the S3 cams are close to a 112 which would be perfect.
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Unread 10-16-2009, 05:39 PM   #63
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Colin, not be a (indecisive ) pain, but let me know when the cut off day arrives ok?
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Unread 10-16-2009, 10:47 PM   #64
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The cutoff will be roughly 1 month give or take.

However I will give everyone a 1 week notice till cutoff time to have deposits in.
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Unread 10-18-2009, 05:36 PM   #65
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I voted in the poll. Does that mean that I am now signed up for the cams? Are you going to be able to get in touch with me about the deposit? Do I need to sign up now for the tri power modification, or can I decide that when I send the deposit? Thanks.

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Unread 10-19-2009, 02:26 AM   #66
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Hello Jerry,

I will send you a PM and send you all the details.

The tri-flow is not required to be spoken up for until the grinding/final payment process.

Once I have a confirmation from you in email then yes you will be set up and good to go!

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Unread 11-07-2009, 12:03 PM   #67
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I am bringing this up to the top with an update.

I have word back on the cams. The deposit that they are requiring to proceed with the build is substantially larger than estimated. But should not pose too much of a problem.

However as only around 30 sets are currently spoken for I will have to request a deposit from all people who have signed up.
The deposit required will be $600USD.

The deposit will need to be recieved by the absolute latest of Nov 23rd. If you have signed up and are not able to do this then I need to know immediately please. If we have many people who have signed on back out then the order will not be able to proceed as I do not have the financial ability to proceed all the way through with this on my own.
Over the next day or two I will be emailing all the parties who have signed up and letting them know of this.

I will be accepting the deposit via Money Order, Certified Check, Bank Draft, and Paypal. But should you choose to use paypal they do have a 3% (last I checked) fee that they levee for the transfer of funds. This will be on TOP of the deposit amount as I cannot eat that 3% should you choose to use that convienience.

My email address is cjensan 'at' gmail.com
Please contact me via this if you are wanting to get on board now and need to know as to where to send the funds.

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Unread 11-08-2009, 03:46 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jadz928 View Post
There was a short-run offer to modify S3 cams for $375, you supply the cores. Found cores for $400. So that's $775. One-off and like Colin said, no one else is doing it. Also note, this the S3 stock cam profile. No regrind. Regrind and Colin's 3K figure is fair.
The market price for S3 cores in good condition is $350. The thrust mod can be done for $400, and I got flamed on the other forum for mentioning that price, someone got in and said they can do it cheaper. So S3's modified to fit S4 heads are together abut $750. I also had a set of cams with Elgin regrinds on top of that. The additional cost was about $850, bringing the total to about $1600 for the regrinds. If you want GT cams or something that is a bit optimized from that, the regrinds are a viable option.

Now, I am getting a set from Colin. If you want more lift than about .400 on the intake and .370 on the exhaust, it's difficult grind those on stock cams without creating all sorts of problems. That's where I see these cams filling the gaping hole in the market. And that's why I am buying a high lift set from him. The price is good.
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Unread 11-08-2009, 10:08 PM   #69
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Thank you Tuomo, and yes you are correct, Even getting to .400" lift with the S3 or GT base cams is going to be touching the limits of the lifter. Anything over .400"/.360" lift on a regrind and lash caps are a wise idea if not a necesity.
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Unread 11-10-2009, 03:52 AM   #70
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Count me in for 1 set - email sent.
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Unread 11-10-2009, 09:43 AM   #71
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Got it and replied!

I was worried about a lot of people backing out on these, but so far the interest has grown considerably and I think it would take the hand of god to stop them now!

guys!
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Unread 11-10-2009, 11:18 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizard View Post
Thank you Tuomo, and yes you are correct, Even getting to .400" lift with the S3 or GT base cams is going to be touching the limits of the lifter. Anything over .400"/.360" lift on a regrind and lash caps are a wise idea if not a necesity.
Regrounds wouldn't have probelms at .400" / .360". In fact, .41" / .37" intake / exhaust lifts are unambiguously fine for S3/GT regrinds with normal, hydraulic lifters and without lash caps. At that level and at lower lifts, regrinds are a viable option.

Beyond that, it's blanks or rewelds. Whether rewelds are a viable option depends on who's doing the rewelding and how. I wouldn't write off all rewelds just like that, but undoubtedly there are some really bad rewelds out there.

With blanks, the first question is material. Is it steel (and if so, what steel) or cast iron (and if so, how is it cast). I believe what you're doing with these cams is casting them from cast iron in a mold that has steel surface at the lobes. The steel mold chills and thus hardens the lobes. Is this correct?
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Unread 11-10-2009, 01:09 PM   #73
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Getting down to the .41/.37 will be removing enough material to be pumping up the lifter to nearly the maximum working range. This is the reason I would avoid that amount. Add on the fact that most of the S3 and GT cams have a few lobes with wear and this limits it that little bit more.

You are also correct that not all welded cams are junk. But the majority of the people who could do it properly wouldnt touch it due to the fact that it is a rediculous amount of work. On a track car reweld would be ok. But on a street car with tons of idling I would avoid it personally.

The blanks are being made the exact same was as factory, and is being done by a company in the USA. (sorry but I dont trust the offshore stuff). I have sacrificed 2 pairs of cams, to this company for them to ensure that these new cams will be exactly the same. They needed them to determine the factory casting methods. I will be trying to get more information on the specific process that will be used, but it will be probably around 3-4 weeks until I can get that specific information.
However I have personally seen and held other blanks and finished cams that have been made by this same company and they are excellent quality products. And I do trust the fellow at Colt. His name came up from everyone I spoke with and so far I have yet to find and or hear one bad story from him.
As I said I was assured that they would be cast/made the same as the factory cams, and they are the experts in this field. He has been using this same company to make his billets for many many years, with not 1 batch having had a previous problem.
I also phoned and talked with 3 of his suppliers and asked about the cams, and they all told me that they have not had one cam failure or any real wear on any of the cams from them.

If I was not personally satisfied that these would not fail, I would never have proceeded with this. But as stated feel free to contact any of the people who use his cams.
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Unread 11-10-2009, 05:19 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizard View Post
You are also correct that not all welded cams are junk. But the majority of the people who could do it properly wouldnt touch it due to the fact that it is a rediculous amount of work. On a track car reweld would be ok. But on a street car with tons of idling I would avoid it personally.
If the welding machine is fully computer controlled and the materials match well, it's possible to do high quality rewelds repeatedly and at an acceptable variable cost. Good enough to run on a street car forever. For a consumer, though, the problem is that few of us can evaluate the quality of the welding process. So in the end, there's a risk for an uneducated consumer like myself.

I did get 928MS / Webcam to make me a radical exhaust cam by rewelding from a GTS exhaust cam. GTS exaust cams are utterly useless for any other purpose, so there's no loss to the society. We'll see how that works when I get around to installing it.
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Unread 11-14-2009, 12:40 PM   #75
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Colin, what would it take to get a set of 16v cams built to spec?
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