01-21-2010, 03:48 PM | #1 |
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'86 Engine
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsc...item27aea75150
Although this is an auction in progress I just thought I'd call attention to the fact that there is a compression tested engine for sale currently less than $1000. SIX large clear photos!! Includes everthing but intake and MM. Look how clean it is!!! (Pssssst, he probably had it steam cleaned although I see some gunk below the oil filler neck) The ad does say "No returns" and then it says 10 day return policy. Buyer beware. No affiliation. |
01-21-2010, 03:52 PM | #2 |
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If it was an Euro I'd buy it.
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01-21-2010, 05:31 PM | #3 |
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nice.
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01-21-2010, 05:56 PM | #4 |
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It's a quality listing that's for sure... but even better is that steam clean job. What equipment would they have used for that?
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01-21-2010, 09:59 PM | #5 |
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that looks like plop and play
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01-21-2010, 10:06 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
---- Without knowing what the legal/environmental issues are where your place is in Pa, I suggest that you look into a serious vapor degreaser for cleaning all but the largest parts. If that's not allowed, a solvent-less parts washer would be the next option. All but electronic parts can be run through the parts washer, which can look a lot like a very large industrial dishwasher. A pressure washer is handy for a lot of things but for commercial use you'll need to have a designated cleaning area/mat, with a grease trap and a way to legally dispose of the slime. Detergent makes most grease traps ineffective since it emulsifies the stuff you are trying to separate and trap. Permits are usually required for such things, so check with your city's planning/zoning/engineering dept's for exactly what you need to do where you are. Fines can get really serious in a hurry, especially if your runoff gets into a storm drain or public waterway for instance. Electronic modules suffer with the caustic degreasers/detergents, but generally don't get that dirty while in the car. I buy ZEP glass cleaner concentrate at Home Depot, and mix it in a spray bottle at about 1:5 with water, but without any ammonia, to use for general parts cleaning. It leaves the labels intact on electronic modules and doesn't attack the connectors. HTH!
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The Following User Says Thank You to dr bob For Your Post: | Rick Carter (01-21-2010) |
01-24-2010, 02:00 AM | #7 |
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I thought it was a good deal when I saw it the other day as well.
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81 928 Auto 95 BMW 325IC Blue W/Blue Top 81 Trans Am Black/Black 6.6 98 Trans Am Blk/Blk LS1 M6 99 Dodge Ram 4x4 5.9 My Car 928registry.org 928 Owners Club Jason Washburn <> Altus, Ok "A hope and change worshipper" Thanks Backslider |
01-24-2010, 09:02 AM | #8 |
Sharkaholic
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The pictures are nice, but did I miss where he says how many miles were on that engine?
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01-24-2010, 02:15 PM | #10 |
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01-25-2010, 11:13 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
OTH, this is a trust issue between a buyer and a seller. Since this thread was intended as instructional, I will leave it there and close this if it goes astray. |
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01-25-2010, 11:49 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
Then again, I'd be replacing most all of the seals before that too.
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www.928srus.com www.928Docs.com '88 S4 Supercharged, Gates Racing belt, Porken Tensioner, Ott drop links, Lomas X, GTS insides and all sorts of other cool stuff and a big ass dent. |
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01-25-2010, 12:20 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
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www.928srus.com www.928Docs.com '88 S4 Supercharged, Gates Racing belt, Porken Tensioner, Ott drop links, Lomas X, GTS insides and all sorts of other cool stuff and a big ass dent. |
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01-25-2010, 12:21 PM | #14 |
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For me I have to see the cylinder walls when I buy a 928 engine, couple of light scratches on the bores are fine (by couple I mean no more than 2 or 3), The deep scratches ruins it for me.
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01-25-2010, 04:02 PM | #15 |
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For that you use a boroscope. I did it to check-out the Rip Vanwinkler engine before I started it.
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