06-23-2009, 12:34 AM | #1 |
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Depressed Big Time!
Took the car for a test drive after the cam gear and T/B job and it ran real nice. It pulled well, ran smooth and the water temp stayed just below the half way point. Drove between 30 and 40 miles and decided to head home, about 4 miles distance.
I got on it from a dead stop, read lined the tach let her shift then backed off. She ran good and I felt satisfied that the job I just finished was a success. I Stopped at a store, and as I was leaving, noticed that the water temp guage was at the halfway point and rising. A quater mile down the road she hit the 3/4 hash mark and within seconds hit the red where as I quickly pulled over. I opend the hood and saw what appeared to be coolant bubbling in the reservoir with a trail of coolant on the road. In addition to that I heard a boiling, bubbling sound from some where in the area of the valley but it was to dark to see where it was coming from. Only 2 miles from home I let her cool down enough to drive one mile before she overheated again. Stopped, pulled over, let it cool even more and was able to drive it the last mile to get it home before the "I" light came on. Not sure what to do now, too much invested to sell, but not sure I want to sink even more into it. Time to take a step back, drink a beer and sleep on it. Damn! time to drink 2 beers and tose and turn all night. |
06-23-2009, 12:53 AM | #2 |
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Mike - from the sound of it - coolant in the vee - it sounds like something not too serious. Maybe you knocked the water bridge and opened it up when doing the timing gears? Lots of things to bump there, just enough to break a seal. My bet is that it's a simple fix. Hot water under pressure being forced out the top somewhere indicates a broken seal on one of the places where the water flows, and not something more serious like a crack in the block or a main seal failure. It almost sounds like a simple thermostat failure?
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06-23-2009, 01:03 AM | #3 |
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Don't freak figure out what the problem is before going nuclear!
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06-23-2009, 01:45 AM | #5 |
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Ed, when I got home, the "I" light didn't come on. I check the valley and there was no coolant in it. The bubbling in the area of the valley wasn't there as it wasn't overheating by the time i got home. However, it did look as though, at some point in time there were water trails coming down from the heads. I'm thinking blown head gasket. The bubbling sound in the valley area seemed to be about midway back.
One thing I did notice is that the electric fan didn't kick on at all, although it does work as I had it jumped before the cam gear job. The sensor for the fan, located lower radiator, drivers side is new. Is it possible to have this connected backwards? could there be a bad relay for the fan? That aside, IMHO, the engine overheated much too quickly for the fan not operating, to be the cause. 6mil, not going nuclear, just feeling really dejected. Themostat is new also...... |
06-23-2009, 03:07 AM | #6 |
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verify that the switch is good and that you have power to the fan first.
It will get and overheat very quickly without the fan when stopped. However that said if you just did the TB/WP I would be first inspecting the WP to verify that it is spinning normally. It sounds to me like a slipping impellor. |
06-23-2009, 08:49 AM | #7 |
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How do you detremine if the belt driven clutch fan is bad?
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06-23-2009, 08:52 AM | #8 |
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First what year is your car?? Please add it to your profile so we dont have to guess!!
Remove the right timing cover and check the timing belt look at the front edge for frayed fibers. Next fill the coolant bottle with water, and look for leaks, if none found open the heater control to hot and leave the cap off the bottle, start the car and let it idle, see how long it takes to warm up. From your description the WP impeller might have failed, if the car gets hot in less than a few mins then its time to remove the WP, hopefully you didnt warp the heads by driving those last 2 miles
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06-23-2009, 09:34 AM | #9 |
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First thing to check is always the last thing you did.
Sounds like WP to me too. You need to figure out where the coolant was coming from but also completely disassemble the TB/WP and find out the condition of the WP. I know it's easy to say in hindsight for you, but for anyone else reading this in the future I'd say to pay attention to your car: If the temp starts to rise beyond the normal range, shut it down. It's not going to get better and could only get worse. Same thing if it starts making funny noises or running rough. |
06-23-2009, 04:21 PM | #10 |
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I'd be looking real close at the WP as well. I had to re-do my last TB job to replace a failed WP right after just getting it back together.
For the good news, it is much easier doing it when all the bolts are freshly anti-siezed and torqued properly. Jim
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06-25-2009, 12:34 PM | #11 |
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Mike - check out this thread: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...need-help.html
And this one too: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...-trip-out.html Sounds like a few of the things we were talking about last night.
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06-25-2009, 05:45 PM | #12 |
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Thanks Ed, lots of good stuff there. will re-read after I get home from work and start somewhere.
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06-26-2009, 12:54 AM | #13 |
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Grey, it was good talking to you yesterday, let us know what happens.
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06-26-2009, 01:08 AM | #14 |
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Hi sean, good talking to you also. Didn't get much of a chance to look at it today but did jump the sensor in the lower rad and it did kick on the condenser fan, it just doesn't kick on when she's hot. Hopefuly I can get to it on sat and check a few things out.
Thanks for your input.
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06-29-2009, 09:18 PM | #15 | |
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