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Old 01-08-2013, 01:58 PM   #61
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Hi Glenn,
I am new to this thread and wanted to say thanks for taking us all along.
As far as the pod problems...have to cleaned the major ground on the steering column? If not, that would be a good thing to mark off your list.
Sounds like your making good headway. keep up the fine fight.
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:21 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean_Fuller View Post
As far as the pod problems...have to cleaned the major ground on the steering column?
Thanks for the tip. I looked for that and couldn't find it.
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Old 01-09-2013, 02:16 PM   #63
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Its on the left side up high. Once you have the pod off its easier to see. SEVERAL brown ground wires on one bolt. I will look for a pic.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:26 PM   #64
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Wow....good story. Brings back memories of a similar road trip from Sacramento, Ca to San Antonio, Tx.

I took that road trip 3 years ago, in a 82 928 that I bought "sight unseen" and not knowing anything about these cars. Made it home, only issues were a busted water line.

3 years fast forward I sold the 82 928 and I plan to pick up a 84 928 in Phx, Az and plan on driving it from Phx, Az to Vegas and depending how things go maybe to trip back to Sacramento, Ca (go and see my mom) and back down to San Antonio.

Minus any kids or wife...just me/myself/I...
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Old 07-02-2013, 11:04 PM   #65
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Well... Long time no update.

I've been diverted onto other interests and other car projects. Just got back to The Zombie here to change the timing belt. Since it probably hadn't been done this century, I figured it was about time.

Actually didn't look too bad. The belt wasn't dry and it ran straight across the sprockets. The rollers are good, too. I'll just put on a spare belt (used but fresh) and drive with a bit more confidence.

Interesting to open it up. I wanted to see what was in there and what the previous owners had done to it. The belt covers were broken a bit and I could get the center section cover off without removing the dipstick. I've thought of doing that on my other car.

An interesting find was that someone put on a later roller assembly around the bottom of the crank sprocket. Early cars just have a plastic guide. I've wanted to do that as it seems better. The car has the original tensioner and I'd like to upgrade to a later version with the oil fill holes that fill the space between the tensioner and block.

Something I didn't expect was that the oil came rushing out of the top of the pan when I pulled out the oil fill pipe. That pipe runs into the top of the "toe" of the pan. Is that normal? Maybe I've just never pulled that without the oil drained. Doesn't seem right. It tended to drip a bit when parked and I'm thinking that was it. I wonder if the dip stick is off a bit. Opinions?

I'm going to get it back together and work on electrics as a background task. I've got other fleet needs to attend to. Just didn't want it to snap during a drive. This thing is wicked quick!
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Old 07-05-2013, 07:01 PM   #66
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And what did I find?

Someone had used a later tensioner arm with a later, but not late enough, shoulder bolt. Took me a moment to realize that no nylon bushing would take up the gap. Luckily, I had a correct idler arm and bolt in a box on a shelf.

Started and runs!

I've got a pile of new and used spares and a plan for a few years has been to catalog them. Actually might get to it.
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Old 10-13-2013, 09:47 AM   #67
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This picture clearly represents how good 928 ownership and resurrection can be.

My current goal is to make the electrics work. Some progress there. Working through a long list of features and gauges that don't work.

So far haven't made the rear wiper work. Seems the motor is just dead. Why the rear wiper? "Because it's there?" I just wanted it to work before I remove it...apparently. There's power and ground to it but it's frozen out-of-position. Pressing the button doesn't do anything.

On the up side, the back-up lights work. Just a lot of corrosion at the connector in the tire well.

The fuel sender is better. I removed it and cleaned the wires and connections. The real problem was corrosion between the contact pin and the internal copper arms. (Makes sens when it's out) The gauge work on current flow so all resistances along the way from the front, through the sender and back add up and make the tank read lower. This is why old cars never go to the top.

I fixed this one with application of sandpaper to the contacts and plug on the outside and by applying a big glob of solder to the internal contact. When assembled, they stamp/flare the pin to a copper tang. The corrosion had gotten into that joint and added 100 Ohms to the circuit. Actually more in some measurements. Can't get it apart to clean so soldered between the pin and the tang. That's not real good as it's more "brazing" than "soldering" and it'll probably corrode on its own. Anyways... Back to 5 Ohms with the float to the top and that's good.

Getting back in for a test drive found the car would start but die as soon as the key was turned to "run" from "start." Checked with the timing light and the plugs were firing while it dies. Must mean fuel. Tach is bouncing, too. I'm thinking fuel pump relay.

Well... That thing is positively stuck into the slots. Takes me 20 minutes to finally drive an awl behind the bottom plate and coax it out. Coaxed the plastic female-end block from the fuese panel, too. Looked fine on inspection so put it all back. Sure...

Turing the key th car started and kept starting. WTF?! Oh, yeah. Turned the car OFF and the engine is running with the starter engaged. Had to jump out and open the power feed at the jump post. (Remember... That takes an 11mm) This leads to hours of fiddling and searching the wiring diagrams. I'm fortunate to have an actual '80 Euro S wiring diagram. It's sorta like an '80 US and a '79 US.

Something I spot that's interesting is that there's a relay in XIV where a manual only needs a solid bridge. I remove that and it still starts and runs with the starter engaged...Zombie-like. I turn the key to start and it goes. WTF infinity.

This seems like a good time to dig deep into the electronics. This car was the victim of an audio enthusiast. That Denon CD unit tied to a Blaupunkt amp and equalizer along with all those speakers must have been way, way cool in 1982. Now it's just splices and wires and boxes I don't need.

Still... Turning the key to "start" makes the car start but after a little pause. It'll run and grind until the power feed is opened. My hunch now is that there's a short between the solenoid wire and the feed to the cold start circuit in the 14-pin engine connector. Seems like a good guess.

Pulling the panel does give access to those two grounds above the panel. Leaving the door off makes it easy to see the business. There were even some "special" wires on the back of the panel. I think there is an amp or two hiding behind the rear quarter panels. Those techs had a big job.
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Old 10-13-2013, 10:40 PM   #68
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Got it working. There was a wire added to the fuse panel. Actually one cut and one added. Took some time to figure it all out. I'm not sure what got this whole mess going. Helped to have my other Euro S 928 back from storage to compare against.

So it starts and runs now. An added bonus is that the interior lights work. Previously there was a short and the fuse blew immediately when the batter was connected. Voltmeter is high and steady.

One thing I don't know is how the fuel pump is handled during cranking. i believe it runs while the starter is running. After that the engine needs to be sparking for the relay to close. The wiring diagram doesn't show how it's done. Might be an extra wire that isn't in the schematic.
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Old 10-15-2013, 01:08 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenL View Post
Got it working. There was a wire added to the fuse panel. Actually one cut and one added. Took some time to figure it all out. I'm not sure what got this whole mess going. Helped to have my other Euro S 928 back from storage to compare against.

So it starts and runs now. An added bonus is that the interior lights work. Previously there was a short and the fuse blew immediately when the batter was connected. Voltmeter is high and steady.

One thing I don't know is how the fuel pump is handled during cranking. i believe it runs while the starter is running. After that the engine needs to be sparking for the relay to close. The wiring diagram doesn't show how it's done. Might be an extra wire that isn't in the schematic.
It might have been an aftermarket alarm and the wire was there so it wouldn't turn over if the alarm was tripped. Somebody might not have known and added the relay back or removed the alarm and f'd up the wiring.
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Old 10-15-2013, 03:37 PM   #70
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Very cool project! It's an interesting thread to follow along with.

Thanks for posting.
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Old 10-15-2013, 09:29 PM   #71
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Quote:
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It might have been an aftermarket alarm
That'd make sense for some of the wiring changes on the panel. I didn't find the alarm control module but there are/were some parts for it.
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Old 11-03-2013, 05:12 PM   #72
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A few weeks on and more progress. Still working through wiring issues. The connectors on the rear of the pod are super touchy. I've got pod lights, OK "light," so the ground is good. Still no engine temp and no speedo. I'll get back to that.

Meanwhile...

As you can see I've replaced the windshield. I was looking for some parts on RockAuto.com and wandered into a "closeout" on 928 windshields. The price was $146 plus $83 shipping and I couldn't resist. I need one on each of my 928s but The Zombie had a long crack and seemed a good candidate for a test run.

The first windshield came and had a small crack at the bottom. Just a light tap, I suppose, but made the layers delaminate. They agreed to a return and I opted for a replacement hoping they'd let me keep the bad one. Nope. So back it went. They pre-paid the return. Not sure it helps but I'm a frequent customer of theirs.

The second windshield was fine. It's the Chinese-made windshield. The catalog listed it a "various manufacturers" so I was hoping name-brand glass. Looked good enough and it'll be a huge improvement.

The weekend plan was to replace it. The results are looking pretty good. The removal was a mess, however.

I purchased a tool to cut the glue with a "L" shaped blade off eBay. $7 so what can go wrong? The box said "Harbor Freight" and, sure enough, the blade broke almost immediately. Plan B was to get a long Sawzall blade and cut the glue from the inside but that proved unwieldy. I also found that my attempts cut into the metal frame.

Plan C was a smashing success. (Sorry) I got to use my two favorite tools, at least. With a small sledge I busted a hole in the windshield. Then used the Sawzall to cut out most of the windshield making a giant hole as near to the frame as I could. The outside ring was easy to pull off along with most of the adhesive. Glass bits? Everywhere. Along with glass dust. It took an hour to vacuum up the garage, the exterior and the interior of the car. I could have laid plastic sheet across the inside, I suppose, but it needed a good, motivated vacuuming. No one should go barefoot in the garage or car, anyways.

The next step was to clean the mounting surfaces. The old sealant scraped off fairly well. It looked like maybe that was a replacement windshield. The goop along the bottom was a mess. I used some lacquer thinner to clean the metal as well.

Oh yeah. The button for the mirror was glued on very solidly. There was no mirror when I got the car and perhaps over-did it. I tried tapping it off and ended up getting it free with a chisel, vice grips and a hammer. When it came free I jerked and somehow slice myself on the chin. Didn't hurt but a nice, thin cut. Extra points for me!

With the windshield out I stripped the bad leather from the dash to reveal a bad dash. Someone had tried to fix it and there was a row of sheetmetal screws along the bottom edge. I tried to get the adhesive residue off but that didn't go well, either. Not sure what to do about that. I need a dash for PCA stock "letter" classes. May be a vinyl dash in my future.

Installing the windshield was fairly easy but nerve wracking. You get one shot and the thing could be dropped. I went to Menards to get some suction cups and all they had were $2 cups that looked like toys. I got four so my helper (daughter) and I could each use two hands. We didn't drop it but they came loose when not being used. Re-mounted them right before each use.

The sealant I used (also off eBay) was Titan P2G. I got two tubes but used only one. The tubes came with some pads soaked in "special" cleaner but it smelled like citrus degreaser. The windshield has to be really clean for the glue/sealant to hold. The frame as well.

The new glass had a black circle to mark where the mirror should attach. That was easy.

The sealant comes in tubes that fit an regular caulking gun. Easy enough? Nope. It's super thick and I needed two hands to squeeze it out. The applicator tip is kind of cool in that it has a "V" notch at the tip and guide finger to make a perfect triangle of sealant as you draw it right along the edge.

One problem was not finding the guide blocks. Or maybe finding one. These hold the windshield up a faction of an inch from along the bottom. I couldn't find a picture on-line but found on likely chunk in the garbage. Just a piece of rubber. I cut some small bits (1"x3/16") from some 1/4" neoprene sheet I had. Worked fine in the trial fit. Makes sense to hold it up a bit using some rubber so the glass doesn't touch the metal.

With the sealant drawn around the edge of the glass it was time. The glass went on with no issues. The rest of the tube of sealant was just enough to fill the gap along the bottom of the windshield. Gloobed some extra into the bottom corners as well. The extruded "V" of sealant stands 1/4" or more tall and takes up the space between the glass and frame well. Or we'll see when the car is in the rain the first time.

Done! For now...
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Old 11-03-2013, 05:14 PM   #73
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During and after!
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Old 11-04-2013, 11:06 AM   #74
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Really enjoying this thread thanks!
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Old 11-12-2013, 11:10 PM   #75
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A heat gun and helper can work miracles. You have to go slowly and work your way around the windshield, heating and having someone with shoes sit in the seat and push with their feet. Just keep moving around the the top and sides slowly until the top edge starts to give way. Then along the bottom edges with the heat gun. I have actually removed a 928 windshield complete and without cracks. Takes patience though. LOTS of patience, like 45 min of slowly working it loose. BUT it can be done.
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