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Old 12-07-2011, 01:03 AM   #46
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I love this thread! Glen, you are a brave soul to drive such a woefully neglected car half way across the country. I love these cars-it gives me a vicarious joy to see one rise from near death to what I'm sure will be a great restoration. What an adventure for your kids too! Thanks for sharing.
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Old 12-08-2011, 10:48 PM   #47
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Thanks, Colin. It'll be a process. I'll keep posting.

I should have added that the car has gotten a good buffing with rubbing compound. Polishing compound wasn't cutting it enough. Looks a bit glossy, eh?
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Old 02-17-2012, 01:31 PM   #48
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Moving along...

Next up are armrest reinforcement and fixing the dangling right-side mirror.

In a fit of luck, the mirror assembly I got off eBay is Schwaz Metalic and matches the car. Actually, the paint is nicer than most of the car.

I can do the two jobs together, I think. Got my weekend planned.
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Old 02-18-2012, 10:54 AM   #49
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nice. Best way to spend a dead Feb weekend.
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:13 PM   #50
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Completed some more resoration work on The Zombie this weekend.

Nice to have three mirrors! The interior rear-view mirror was missing and turned up beneath the seats. Cleaned up nicely and I glue it up. Why are those mirros so hard to get to mate fully with the buttons? Must be 1/2 the reasons the things come off.

The passenger side mirror that was "broken" turned out to be just unscrewed at the hinge. Take a 12mm triple square to tighten it up but the assembly has to come off first. The pins in the mirror connector came out fine with a new TE 305183 tool I got from Newark for $20 delivered. Worth the delay time and expense to have it. Now when the electrics are fixed I can see if the mirror adjustment motor works.

The big advancement was in the ability to close the doors. The interior handles/arm rests were almost completely unattached to the door. A pair of metal backing plates (928 Intl. $85) fixed those up fine. A little troublsome as one of the attachment bolts interferes with the door panel insert. That's the mini panel by the door latch. I had to notch te panel to get it fully down and seated. Can't see the work from the outside.

With the armrests off I took the door panels off and repaired those. I'm planning to get the car eventually but in the meantime I want it nice. The panels were beat up and dirty. I cleaned the carpet and leather and then reattached those. Contact cement is the right stuff for that along with some staples.

The fiberboard backing on one door was really broken up. I repaired that with fibreglass cloth and epoxy. This is a good time for 1-hour cure time epoxy, btw. Where the tears are I put down epoxy and then a layer of fibreglass cloth. That's available at any auto parts shop for bodywork. Then apply one or two more layers of the cloth along with more epoxy, doing both sides of the fibreboard. The repaired section is stronger than it was originally. I also reinforced the clip holes with epoxy.

Clips? I got a box of 25 for $14 from ClipsandFasteners.com.

The panels and arm rests went back pretty well. Needed a couple of trim screws to hold one side steady. Far better looking and functioning than how it was for not much money.

Next up: fix electrical problems due to the aftermarket alarm system and do front brakes and suspension work.
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:30 AM   #51
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Working through electrical issues now. 928 electrics are a tough row with the combination of '70 technology and the desire to have a luxury car with lots of features.

I pulled out the alarm system fairly well. They had spliced in to the starter wire at the key switch. That was easy. There is some other wiring at the CE panel that I'm having a hard time figuring out. I've got an official '80 Euro S wiring diagram but working back from what's there to what should be there is confusing. I'm working it by tring to make each un-functioning system work.

Another complication is PO mistakes. I had no turn signals on the car and had resorted to removing the relay and jumpering power to the circuit. Then I could make them flash by toggling the stalk. Looks like two problems there. Firstly, someone swapped the flasher switch in the pod with a fog light switch. Plugs are the same, just lots fewer connection on the fog light so no power to the relay. Swapped that back to find the relay itself is dead. Luckily that is a VW part so $11 delivered and I'll have turn signals.

Got some interior lights working, too. The fuse was so corroded that giving it a few spins wouldn't break through it. Nice when a new fuse solves a problem. I think that'll be needed. I should probably just replace them all.

I pulled the pod to get at the alarm and fix that wiring. Discovered that the pod was not bolted down at all. Gotta find the just-right bolts for that. Also that one of the plastic tangs that are inside the edge connectors was broken off. Easy to do when horsing the pod around. That explains why some gauges didn't work at all. Some JB weld and it's fixed. Still haven't mounted the pod back to see what's working. Waiting to resolve some other electrical issues.

Still no sound from the stereo. Right side mirror and window don't work. Left side stuff does.

It's good times with the wiring diagram and multimeter.
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:54 AM   #52
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I lost track, what Porsche Merit Badge are you up to?
Or like on the side of a WWII fighter, there should be stickers on our cars for "kills" (of the mechanical kind). Congrats.
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:19 PM   #53
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Thanks, Steve. I'm going for the Race Car badge.

Put it together last night and found new stuff working in the pod. Gas gauge and some warning lights. "Brake Pad?" I'll get to it.

Learned a bit more on the electrics. No illumination in the pod so unsure if the speedo works. No light on the clock which had been lit previously. There must be a short in something I attached last night in that circuit.

Next up: Koni's and old one-rate Eibachs for the front along with rebuilt calipers and new brake hoses. Then to set the ride height. The back is too low by the looks of it.
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:13 PM   #54
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With the pod switches connected to the right cable and a new relay the car has turn signals and emergency flashes. Surprisingly, the four corners and two side markers all work.

During a full-throttle highway entrance I noticed the steering get heavy. Sure enough, id had thrown the power steering belt. Surprisingly, the belt was hanging on the pump and had turned fully inside out. A few good gouges in it as well. It was reasonably tight last week after installing the shorty belt between crank and fan. What gives? I had problems keeping it on during the cross-country drive from Seattle. Now I'm afraid there's a bad pulley or something. Weird.

Also found fuse #4 blown. That's for the pod switch lights and a few things. Still no lights in the pod and no speedo. The clock is lit up and responds to the rheostat for instument lighting so that circuit is somewhat working.

I mounted the springs I've got to some Koni's for the front. I got the Koni's for free from a local garage owner. "Got some 928 parts near the dumpster..." They're in good shape.

I noticed a part number on the springs of Eibach 7024.101. They don't look like the Eibach springs I put on a buddy's car. Are these the original Eibach springs? Checking the over they are dual-rate but not nearly as noticeable. The narrowly wound coils are much closer together than the regular section. I can't see them closing up and giving a second rate. Maybe that's why they changed them; it was a poor design. Much stiffer than the stock springs so they're an improvement.

Still gotta work through electrical issues and get the front coilovers and calipers in.
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Old 04-17-2012, 12:20 AM   #55
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Oh yeah. Another good set of work done.

This round was the front suspension. I had some Koni shocks and Eibach springs to go in along with rebuilt calipers, fresh pads and new brake hoses. Simple enough.

So I pull the wheel and start checking out what's there. The ball joints and tie rods looked nicely tight except for one problem: Aluminum balljoint carriers on both sides. Amazing. Weren't those recalled in 1985? Never replaced? Both were still tight and looked good but can't stay on the car.

I had one used balljoint on hand, two later adjusters and then bought a new balljoint. I got a Raybestos brand from Rock Auto for about $100. The box said "Made in Germany" so guessing it's a re-boxed Lemfoerder bit. Looks nice enough.

Getting it all apart wasn't too bad. The bolts are all fairly sticky but come out eventually. The balljoints were tough and I busted the shaft on my lever-action balljoint tool. Found the right bolt to put in and then it all came apart.

Getting the shocks out was pretty tough. The car had the original non-adjustable shock mounts on it. For some small dimension difference I could barely work them out even with the lower arm removed. Like those springs are 1/4" wider or something. Lots harder to get out than to put in the new ones.

One of the brake calipers was missing a guide pin for the floating caliper. That side had a bubble in the brake hose, too. Pretty dangerous failures possible with those.

The front rotors were surprisingly fresh. No visible wear on the surface. Just one problem: the discs were on the wrong sides. The spiral fins inside the disc should be turned in the direction that'll force air out. Not surprising to miss that, I suppose.

Also re-packed the wheel bearings. Maybe should have had new bearings put in but the races looked fine.

It all went together fairly well. No problems getting the brakes bled. Did fronts and backs again and the pedal feels pretty good. Not like stainless lines but good. I'll bleed them another time or two this summer as the bubbles collect and can be pumped out.

With the rear wheels off I adjusted the ride height. It measured at 140/142 in the back and I'm going for 160 there and 155 in front.

Dropped it down and made some preliminary adjustments to the alignment. I wonder how the factory set the alignment. Probably with that winch thing they show in the manual to pull the car down.

No progress on the electrics and drove it off without the PS belt on. I forgot about that. No problem. I'll get it in the next round.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:55 AM   #56
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My long summer lay-off from working on this car continues.

I did re-cover the steering wheel with a kit from Agla. It didn't fit well and I really striggled to make it work. They offer different kits for subtly different four-spoke wheels. Apparently Porsche jobbed it out to different sub-contractors. It's fitting better with time as the leather stretches and contracts. Looks fairly nice and is a big improvement over a bare plastic ring.

Still huge amounts of work to go! Runs like a banshee when I put my foot into it. Better than my other Euro S when it was stock. At least it feels that way.
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:22 PM   #57
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Glen - Just found this thread! What a great adventure and project!

You are an excellent writer as well. I suspect you have some writing background.

Looking forward to additional installments!
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Old 12-11-2012, 08:02 PM   #58
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Glen,

I seem to be going thru the same things. Glad to hear that I am not the only one with these problems to try to recover from.

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Old 12-11-2012, 08:19 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelathome View Post
Glad to hear that I am not the only one with these problems to try to recover from.
We all need a support group...one way or the other.
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:20 AM   #60
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Hi Glenn, I just found your trip posts and have read thru it. What an adventure you and your children experienced on that trip. You wrote it so well I felt as tho I was on the trip with you. I caught my breath each time you had a problem pop up. I don't think I would have had the guts to make a trip that long without overhauling the car, especially after seeing the cars condition.

Cheers,
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