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Unread 07-13-2014, 07:01 AM   #16
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Thanks for all the replies . I have had the car with me for a few days and have mixed feelings . It is original rhd and as far as I can work out factory yellow . But paint is about a 4 . Engine runs great but has flex plate rattle and fluctuating idle . Suspension has been wound down so low in rear . Interior I have never seen a dirtier carpet . Lucky I have a 5 and 7 year old to help my scrub . It has the fundamentals of a good car from 10 feet looks good . I would appreciate if you could check vin for me for options etc . Vin no wpozzz92zks840151. Regards rego . Car has current registration , so no problem . Also did a ppsr check before purchase and all is well . Look forward to finding out about this beast . Thanks in advance . . Cheers Again
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Unread 07-14-2014, 11:04 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickmang View Post
Regards rego . Car has current registration , so no problem
WP0ZZZ92ZKS840151
1989
928 - LHD (RHD are 927)
C08 - Japan LHD
M28.42
A28.16 - Auto

462 Sekuriflex windshield
567 Windshield green graduated tint
650 Sunroof

So options don't include anything unusual, and no LSD.

The database is pretty clear on it being LHD, and I haven't seen it be wrong about that, so its likely been converted to RHD post-factory. Its not uncommon, and how well that was done varies.. a pic of the engine bay would be a good clue - The coolant reservoir should be on the passenger side, and the brake master and booster on the driver's side. The bonnet pull is the other thing which doesn't always get moved over in a conversion - should be on the driver's side.

On the paint - non-metallics through '89 may not have clear coat from factory. You might be able to make it look a lot better with a cut and polish - test with a clean cloth somewhere not too visible with some mild abrasive polish and see if it makes the cloth yellow.
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Unread 07-14-2014, 07:11 PM   #18
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Thanks for your search . I will add photos . Brake booster etc on drivers side . Bonnet pull on drivers side . Was told it was a UK import but unable to find link for vin . Can you direct me .?? . It is most definetly yellow from factory . All the little bits yellow . . Anyway all all info is great
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Unread 07-21-2014, 07:49 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickmang View Post
Thanks for your search . I will add photos . Brake booster etc on drivers side . Bonnet pull on drivers side . Was told it was a UK import but unable to find link for vin . Can you direct me .?? . It is most definetly yellow from factory . All the little bits yellow . . Anyway all all info is great
Sorry for the delay - I don't habitually check this site. The forum most 928'ers hang out on is rennlist.com's 928 forum.

UK cars have the country code C16 on the sticker in the rear hatch (and in the front of the service book too usually).

Your car has country code C08 which is Japan LHD according to my records, hence my assumption its a LHD conversion. C18 is the code for Japan RHD - but LHD 928's are a lot more common in Japan for cultural reasons (high-end European sports cars have more cachet in Japan if they're LHD).

Sadly, there is no public VIN lookup anymore - it used to be that you could look up the car and option codes in PET. I have access to the same data, but only using SQL, which is where I pulled the VIN details above from.

If you want to confirm the car's details, you can also phone your local Porsche dealer - if you talk nicely to them, they can look up the car and provide more detail than I'm able to, including colour codes, date it left the factory etc.

Is the coolant reservoir on the driver's or passenger side in your car?

Start a thread about it on Rennlist - you'll get a lot of interest, as long as you post pics
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Unread 07-23-2014, 09:03 AM   #20
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OK , . Again thanks for all the info. Have done approx. 100 kms since it arrived and have a few questions . Changed oil and plugs . Ran a intake cleaner . General clean up etc . Driving today ran ok but began to splutter and spew black smoke ,not oil >rich from exhaust . Turned off and restarted , still black . Idle was all over the place . Left it for 20mins restarted and ran well although I think still Not correct . From my limited research could this be a faulty temp2 sensor ?? . if it is where can I buy one from . Any other suggestions to sort this . Thanks In advance .
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Unread 07-23-2014, 11:17 AM   #21
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I suggest coming off the hip for a set of NEW spark plug wires. They are $$$ BUT it is amazing how bad the car will run with old wires. You will throw lots of money down a hole trying to fix it and nothing else will work. if it still runs bad THEN go after the other items.
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Unread 07-23-2014, 11:28 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickmang View Post
Turned off and restarted , still black . Idle was all over the place . Left it for 20mins restarted and ran well although I think still Not correct . From my limited research could this be a faulty temp2 sensor ?? . if it is where can I buy one from . Any other suggestions to sort this . Thanks In advance .
First off, do you have the PDF copy of the workshop manuals?
http://www.ligeti.com/928/

Second - don't start buying parts and swapping them until you've diagnosed the problem. You can easily burn through $1k in parts and still not fix anything.

You can measure the temp II sensor using a multimeter - check the resistance of each pin to ground. The Temp II is actually two sensors in one with one on each pin - one is used by the EZ-K ignition ecu, and one by the LH fuel ecu. The workshop manual gives the range of resistances at various temperatures. Odds are its fine.

Running rich enough to affect idle and produce black smoke could be a number of things.

Does your car have cats and an o2 sensor? (should do as an ex-Japan car - japanese cats have a flat stainless steel plate attached to their underside, and a couple of temp sensors at the back end of the cats).

Could be an O2 sensor issue, or a failing ECU, or a Temp II sensor, or a failing MAF, or a wiring problem (intermittent short in MAF, O2 or ECU harness).

The first test I'd be doing is unplugging the MAF sensor and seeing if the car runs the same, or worse, as well as inspecting the MAF connector's wires for shorts or failed insulation.

Its also worth looking at the back side of the LH ECU to see if its been opened in the past, and if so, opening it up to check whether its got stock chips in there.
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Unread 07-24-2014, 08:25 PM   #23
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Hilton . Thanks For your input . I did as you suggested and called Porsche . Yes is a rhd conversion and originally Pine Green . It will be a time stealer but i do like playing with cars . The black smoke is very thick and to me car sounds like its running less cylinders . I was going to disconnect Temp 11 sensor so that it goes open loop and fuels direct from presets . This i am assuming would < if sensor is faulty > clean up carbon . If that doesnt work pull out Maf and clean , checking all connections . I am not familiar with lamba sensors and unsure if this car has them . . Thanks For the manuals . Michael . While im thinking about it . There are red and green led lights i can check to see if one bank is faulting , on the ecu somewhere . How do if find these . Thanks Again
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Unread 07-25-2014, 12:33 AM   #24
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The red and green lights should be in a clear-cased relay attached just above the ECU's on the left side of the passenger footwell - assuming your RHD conversion was done correctly.

The red light means the ignition bank through the right-side distributor has an issue (right side of the car from the driver's perspective), green is left side.

I'd start diagnosis with these steps:

First unplug and inspect the king leads from the coils to each distributor - make sure they're dry and corrosion-free - this is a common source of misfire/ignition problems, and a very quick easy check, so just do it. A small brass brush will clean the terminals up.

Then test for spark on each ignition bank (or better, each plug).

If all cylinders have spark, then progress to LH diagnosis.. see pages 24-110 to 24-224 in Volume 1A of the WSM (WorkShop Manual).

I'd follow the tests for High Fuel Consumption and Misfiring.

A word of warning about the workshop manuals - finding S4-specific information is sometimes a mix of 84-86 model year info too, as they also used LH injection. However, there are also the odd page here and there on differences for S4's, like no idle speed adjustment for 87-onwards (its computer controlled).

Lastly - you said it runs ok when you left it for 20 mins - does it start to get erratic after about 30s or a minute of running? If so, my money's on an O2 loop issue, either sensor, or frayed wiring due to rubbing where it passes around the heatshield and then into the passenger footwell, or LH ecu dying (the o2 loop circuit is on the part which dies after about 25 years).

Running with no O2 sensor signal causes the ECU to tend full-rich as soon as it tries to go closed loop (as its reading 0V).

Either way - following the diagnostic steps in the manual will rule out what it isn't.
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Unread 07-26-2014, 11:22 PM   #25
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Mick - one other thing which just occurred to me while writing a post on Rennlist is that the surging idle could be caused by a failed or poorly-adjusted throttle idle switch.

You can measure the pins at the LH ECU connector, to make sure the microswitch is closing for idle position when wigglign/releasing the throttle arm on the side of the intake. If its too tight, then as the engine expands when warm, it could be causing the switch not to close so the ecu doesn't know to switch to idle map.
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Unread 07-29-2014, 04:35 AM   #26
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Thanks Hilton . Had a minute to look @ it today . Checked ignition coils and cleaned rotor button and distributor terminals . Started up , rough . Checked fuses , red light in clear case above ecu . This is guess is right bank not firing or misfiring . Ok now what . Thanks Again
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Unread 07-29-2014, 10:18 AM   #27
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Take off the plastic cover at the front of the engine bay (just by the headlight bar). There are two ignition amplifiers there, bolted to a thick black aluminium plate (heatsink).

Swap the plugs around and see if the light changes to a green one - if so, one of them is dead.

If its still a red one, then the problem is downstream of that point.
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Unread 07-29-2014, 09:20 PM   #28
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If the light stays red after swapping the ignition amplifier plugs around, then next step is swap the coils over. If one of the coils is dead, then the problem will move to the other side.

If it still stays red, then the problem is one of the two temperature sensors in the heads (which are what activate the ignition monitoring system) - they can be accessed from under the car - they're screwed into powers on the bottom side of the heads just where the exhaust manifold joins the heads.

If you haven't figured it out yet, the best place to buy parts from is usually Roger Tyson of 928srus.com - he has no ecommerce site, so best to use the phone or email, but he knows 928's very well, and has a lot of aussie customers. 928intl are also excellent, and they carry used parts too, just remember some stuff is LHD/RHD specific.

For local sources, I often find Bob Whyms Auto in Sydney are well priced, and there's Matt Nicholson in NSW who is the local agent for JDS Porshce in the UK for rebuilt ecu's, MAF's etc. You can find Matt's phone number on the landsharkoz site.

For the parts catalogue, its on Porsche's site here:

http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf...91_KATALOG.pdf

Note that RHD-specific parts start with the part number "927".
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Unread 07-30-2014, 09:34 AM   #29
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I dont even own a 928 but lots of great info on this thread. I do agree with dean fuller plug wires are a wear item and investing in a new set even if its not the problem might not be the worst of ideas. That would be where i would start off. (i dont know the condition of the current ones but if they looked questionable that would be where i would start)

also friend Sean Ratts Texas location, on facebook he is also on this site although not as often as he used to be. Thats another guy that could help solve issues since he works with 928's for a living.

No offense to Hilton since he seems to know his sharks but never hurts to have multiple experts on an issue
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Unread 08-16-2014, 01:28 AM   #30
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how'd it go Mick?
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