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Old 03-27-2015, 11:55 PM   #31
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good progress
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Old 03-31-2015, 05:57 PM   #32
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Don't forget you need to flush out the oil galleys really well. Who knows what bypassed the filter (likely nothing, but no time to take that chance)
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Old 04-02-2015, 09:25 PM   #33
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Yup. Will be flushing. The oil cooler will beed to be cleaned really well. Might take it to get ultrasonically cleaned. Tomorrow the replacement parts will be ordered.

Edit: Decided to just buy a new oil cooler.

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Old 04-03-2015, 06:48 PM   #34
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Cleaned the pistons with Permatex Gasket Remover. Excellent at removing carbon. Need one more application for the 4-6 pistons. The old bearing are in the freezer bag at the bottom of the first picture.
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Old 04-06-2015, 04:49 PM   #35
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Almost all the parts for the reassembly were ordered today. The connecting rod bolts will take a bit of time to get here (ARP showed 4 weeks at my local vendor). The rest (except the IMS bearing) are coming from Pelican Parts. Those should be here in about a week. It's cleaning time now. I'm not reusing the oil cooler, decided to get a new one instead.

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Old 04-07-2015, 08:20 PM   #36
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First round of piston cleaning is done. Next is to pull the rings and clean the ring grooves. The cylinders go decarbonned too. It will take a long time to clean everything. I will give myself a month to get it all ready (1hr every day or so). The spray bottle is filled with WD-40, not Windex.

Word of caution, don't leave the gasket remover on over night. It will dry and require re spraying to get it off and is a bit corrosive on exposed metal. Best to leave it on for 5-10 minutes then wipe off and rinse it well with WD-40.
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Old 04-08-2015, 10:32 AM   #37
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so what was the cause of the eaten bearing?
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Old 04-10-2015, 03:17 PM   #38
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I don't know but probably the oil got too hot. One radiator fan wasn't working, and I did two back to back hot passes at the drag strip with a heat soaked engine. Had to wait in line for my turn while the engine was running and the oil pressure dropped right after the second pass. Since the oil pressure drop was at the drag strip, the beating issue probably happened there. However, I did drive the car home after a couple hours of cooling down and then occassionally drove it for another 2 weeks. Several times taking it up to redline. But I have little doubdt that the bearing damage happed at the drag strip.
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Old 05-17-2015, 01:26 PM   #39
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Anything happening?
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Old 06-10-2015, 09:42 PM   #40
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Was waiting for parts to arrive. All but the connecting rod bolts from ARP are here. Those should be here any day now. When I ordered them, lead time was 6 weeks. 3 weeks ago I called the local dealer and it was 2 weeks away from arriving to my local ARP dealer. I'll call them in the next few days to ask for an update. In the mean time I started the re assembly tonight. 5 minutes into it didna screw up. Didn't realize the oil comtrol "jets" for the main bearings will fly out at Mach 1 if compressed air is put into the non bearing side of the oil hole. It flew out and bounced off the brake cleaner can and then heard it ping off the floor a few times. Needles to say I couldn't find it so I need to call the dealer tomorrow and get a new one. I put my hand infront of the other ones so they don't do the same. So other than needed one "jet" the main bearing carrier received all the new bearings and is ready for the crankshaft.
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Old 06-16-2015, 08:59 PM   #41
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Picked up the missing "oil control jet" aka piston squirter at the local dealer. It was $13.25. Tonight decided to drop the crankshaft into the bearing cradle. Got a bottle of "No Smoke" to use as assambly lube. This sucker is as think as honey. Used it on my Passat when the camshaft had to be changed. Lubbed up all the main bearings and the crankshaft and bolted the two halves together. My little guy helped finger tight the new cradle bolts, then I snug them down just enough for the cradle halves to touch. The crank spins nice and freely in the new bearings. I will torque the bolts down next time I work on it and then install the 3 connecting rods.
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Old 06-29-2015, 09:28 PM   #42
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Torqued the bearing carrier bolts tonight. The crankshaft spins effortlessly by two fingers. I'm measure the endplay next time I work on it. The 4-6 connecting rods are finger tight. Will be removing the pistons next time too.
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Old 06-30-2015, 08:52 PM   #43
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Last night noticed the connecting rods and pistons were upside down. Tonight I spun them around. Last night the con rod bolts were only finger tight so I put a note on it. Once I spun them around I torqued the ARP bolts to 45ft/lb and then removed the pistons as they need to be off to put the case halves back together. I've also measured the crankshaft endplay and it was "0.005 or 0.127mm. The new installation limit is 0.05mm to 0.24mm. The wear limit is 0.28mm. I'm at the middle of the new installation limits.
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Old 07-02-2015, 04:08 PM   #44
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I love a good build thread. You got damn lucky on that crankshaft. I saw that bearing pic and thought surely it took your crank out too.

Best of luck on the rest of the assembly.
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:31 PM   #45
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Yes, very lucky.

Tonight cleaned the holes and bolts for the "splash shield" and installed it. Noticed that a small piece was missing. Upon closer inspection it was clear that this happened when the valves bent 3 years ago. There was faint discoloration of the block where the piece was missing. When the timing chain skipped because of the tensioner pad material got cought in it, it pushed down on this piece and cracked a chunk out. I'm leaving as is. Used Permatex blue thread locker to install the bolts. The bolts and the block holes were completly clean and dry.
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