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Unread 11-04-2018, 08:54 PM   #196
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Default Removed the headliner

The car has a sunroof and that's got to be addressed. For one thing, at the track my helmet was touching the liner. A race seat should be lower but I'm not sure it'll be low enough. Also, the sunroof parts add weight in the top of the car. Maybe it's not critical but, in combination, I want it removed.

Getting the headliner out was a long process. The trick with the liner for a sunroof car is that the sunroof has to be open to release it from the opening. What I read didn't make sense until I saw it. When the liner is installed, the vinyl at the opening is wrapped back into the top of the opening and then glued and clamped down. It's really held quite strongly. About an inch of material goes under the rails for the sunroof itself and under trim pieces at the front and back. Gotta remove 17 screws.

Getting the sunroof open took a while. The motor worked but didn't have the torque to move the mechanisms. For a while, I turned the coupler between the motor and gearbox by hand. Slow! The winning approach was to use a power drill to turn the gearbox. I use a right-angle adapter (in pic) to gain space. I was concerned that the higher torque would strip the gears or cables but, working gently, it started moving quickly enough and opened. I'm planning to lube the rails and make it work normally. It's getting cool and rainy here.

The first pic show the underside of the roof with the headliner removed. I wondered if is was workable to cut off the support for the sunroof and weld up the hole. I'll look again but I'm thinking to cut out most of the roof and put in the sheetmetal from the roof of a non-sunroof car.

Second pic shows the donor. I cut it off a 928 when parting it a couple of years ago. It's waiting the the garage rafters, along with a tan liner. If shows the simple structure of the roof without sunroof: just a sheet of metal. The frame around the outside looks to be the same.
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File Type: jpg SunroofRoof.jpg (199.4 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg NoSunroofRoof.jpg (170.6 KB, 2 views)
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Unread 12-11-2018, 11:57 PM   #197
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Default Race seat

The race seat for the driver's side is installed. I've been looking for a shop to install a cage. They'd like to see it installed for planning and need it for the build.

the seat is a Pyrotect and is FIA-certified. That means no back brace is needed for PCA.

The pics show the adapter plates needed to mount the seat to the stock seat mounts. Those are too far apart to mount the seat directly to them. The first pic shows the plates drilled to mount to the rails and to the brackets for the seats. There are commercial adapters available but they seem pricey when I can fab these out of a $14 plate from Fleet Farm.

Pic 1: Plates
Pic 2: Plates installed
Pic 3: Race seat!
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File Type: jpg SeatApapters.jpg (202.4 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg SeatAdaptersInstalled.jpg (243.3 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg RaceSeat.jpg (126.1 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 01-21-2019, 04:34 PM   #198
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Default WUR Rebuild

I sourced this WUR rebuild kit. It's for a non-vacuum WUR while the car has a double-vacuum system. Replacing the rubber diaphragm for the vacuum boost looked risky. What I wanted was the nickel-sized metal diaphragm and o-ring for it that actually regulate the pressure. Those plus the "8-shaped" o-ring. This was the cheapest way to get those although I didn't try just ordering those parts.

Went in fine and the car runs great. I tried measuring pressures but the Harbor Freight fuel pressure set was acting weird again. So I just hooked it up and ran it. Viola!
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Unread 04-13-2019, 06:44 PM   #199
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Default Engine shocks and rack buffer

Getting back to the car as it's almost driving season. I didn't get a cage put in as that effort was overcome by events like paying a college bill. (Kids interfere with car projects!)

To move the project along, I've put in the engine shocks. These absorb engine vibration and really aren't needed on any sort of track car. Besides adding smoothness, I'm hoping they hold the engine a little more upright in corners. Last year, I found the the '85 Tubular manifolds touched the lower knuckle on the sterring shaft in hard-right corners. That's as exciting as it sounds. This happened on my other Euro S, too. Easy to put in.

We'll see if it works at the first track weekend of the season. That's the last weekend in April. The local PCA club does their event in Brainerd, MN. This isn't a smart combination and it has been snowed out in years past. We'll see.

In this PCA region, the car needs an inspection before going to the track. These are done at local P-car shops. It passed last fall just fine but a different tech looked this year. It failed. He cited too-loose front wheel bearings, a loose inner ball-joint and no battery tie down. OK! I had a number of tie rods with good inner balls to choose from. The bearings needed just a small bit of tightening.

While replacing the ball joint, I spotted an extra buffer on the steering rack. (Pictured.) I've seen these before and wonder what the heck it's for. I've often thought the turning radius was too large at lock. Now I see why. The aluminum ring inside of the rubber stop isn't found in the PET. I removed that from the right side. I'll pull back the boot and check the left, too. It should help in parking lots.
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File Type: jpg EngineShock.jpg (150.6 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg RackBuffer.jpg (176.1 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 04-17-2019, 01:33 PM   #200
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Default Battery hold-down

And here's a custom battery hold-down in Lemon Yellow. Take a piece of scrap 50mm plate, cut it, bend it and drill a hole. Then paint with a 25yo can of yellow paint. The spray can was so old the price sticker said $2.99.

The battery is not a stock size so a real hold-down wouldn't work. This battery is identical except for being about 2" shorter. It still has the lips at the bottom so it fits into the front hold-down. This is the battery I'm most often offered when a FLAPS says they've got a 928 battery in-stock. Not quite, but it works.

Now the car can go back to the shop for a final check.
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Unread 04-28-2019, 09:25 PM   #201
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Default GT grease caps

The car runs Panamera "10-spoke" wheels at the track. These are a good offset (59mm) in 8". The problem is that the hubs are a bit thinner than other Porsche wheels and the fingers on the center caps touch the front wheel grease caps. Previously, I ran the wheels with no center caps. I wanted to fix that and the answer is to replace the taller, "square" caps with these shorter, domed caps. Shopping around, they're available from $16 to $50. (HUH?) Got a pair of cheap one, direct from Germans, and put them on. I've got these on my other 928 and it worked fine there, too.

Put these on when putting on the track tires, and Hawk Blue pads, before a track weekend. Gratifyingly, the car ran great with no issues whatsoever! A change from last fall where the blow-by tubing was too small. That caused pressure to build in the crankcase and force oil up the dipstick tube. Messy! The outlet in the oil filler cap is about 8mm so the rest of the tubing should be at least that big. Old posts: 1" hose Catch can
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File Type: jpg GTScaps.jpg (211.1 KB, 2 views)
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Unread 05-15-2019, 09:18 PM   #202
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Default Exhaust manifold touching U-joint

The car ran well at the track in April. Not much run-time but mostly good results.

One thing that needed to be fixed was that, in hard right corners, the exhaust manifold would touch the steering U-joint. That's disconcerting. The steering wheel sticks a bit at that time. I improved this last fall by reversing the upper bolt so the head (shorter) faced the manifold rather than the end of the bolt (longer).

That made it a lot better but didn't fix the problem entirely. Looking at the problem today, the spot where it touches the manifold is clear. It's a dark spot on the tube in the picture.

I tried a bit of filing but then thought to move the U-joint down a bit. With the bolts loosened, a few taps from a hammer moved the joint down about 1/8". That should be enough.

I do wonder if this is a problem on the '85/'86 cars. The manifold and U-joint must be in about the same place as on my car.
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File Type: jpg UjointManifold.jpg (170.9 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 05-20-2019, 10:11 PM   #203
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Default A roll of quarters

It's common to find change under the seats. Today I found a whole roll of quarters! The newest was 2002 so likely to have been there a while.

That was tucked between the amplifier and the tunnel. Or "an amplifier" as I'm not sure it's stock. I've been looking at installing a radio and fixing the clock. Nice to have the time during track events.

Also moved the seat back a notch. It feels more comfortable and moves my legs away from the steering wheel. Easy fix: get a smaller wheel. Hmmm...
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Unread 05-25-2019, 06:31 PM   #204
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Default Fixed analog clock

Here's a non-essential one: fixed the analog clock. These VDO clocks are basically the same across Porsche 928, 944 and 911 of the time.

This took some fiddly de-soldering and soldering work. It would have gone easier if I'd have had some solder wick. The results were good in the end.

So, the clock in the console didn't work. It's kind of a neat thing once I figured it out. There's no motor spinning that gets divided down. That'd take a lot of current, I suppose. The trick is that they have a high-frequency crystal and divide that down to pulse the motor once per second. There's an ancient-looking IC chip that does the dividing. Then there's a magnetic disk on a shaft. Every second a field gets applied to it and that gets reversed on alternate pulses. Hmmm... I'm not sure why it doesn't just go backwards sometimes.

Looking on-line, the common failure is that one or two of the two large capacitors go bad. These electrolytic caps are 100uf and 16V. Actually, there's two different caps but I could only figure out one so put two on like that. Probing the circuit, they're charged the same.

First, gotta get the clock open. A few screws and de-soldering the ground pin. Then remove the caps and then put in the new caps. These caps have a polarity and the "-" is marked on the board. That's the short leg of the new caps. Easy enough.

The clock didn't start up well, though. If I tapped on it, it'd tick-tock a few times and stop. I sprayed it with some DeOxit as that'll evaporate. There was something making the motor stick but some spraying, blowing that off and working it finally made it run smoothly. Bench tested it for a day and it was keeping good time.

I like the old-style clock and want to keep it in. It's handy to have when on the track as DE and practice sessions are all timed.
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File Type: jpg ClockCaps2.jpg (237.5 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg ClockCaps3.jpg (135.7 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg ClockCaps.jpg (177.4 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 06-24-2019, 10:26 PM   #205
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Default Radio Installation

It's nice when there's time to do something just for fun.

The car had been hacked-up to have what looks like 2 different stereos installed. The last one was a fancy Bang&Olafson system that must have been super-cool in 1985. The damage to the door panels and rear quarter panels shows it was an eight-speaker system. The door and B-pillar metal is cut further and hints to what else was done previously.

But when I got it, there was no head unit and two door speakers were gone leaving holes in the panels. Can't just mount them behind the perforated vinyl, it seems.

Digging into the wiring, it appears the car originally had the low-end audio system with just two speakers. When made, the harnesses run to the doors and rear. The installers couldn't use that and ran new wiring. All the new(er) stuff is gone and I'll be using the stock wiring.

The trick between the systems is how the wiring to the rear is bridged into the system. With the four-speaker system, there's a short harness added that ties the radio's stereo output to the fader switch below the parking brake. The harness then runs the front/back split to the door and rear speakers. For two-channels, the output of the radio is just plugged into the wiring to the front doors. The connectors mate-up just in front of the driver's seat.

I've made a harness that ties from the new stereo head's 4-channel output to the rear speaker harness. Nice to have boxes of wiring harnesses to pilfer for that 4-pin connector.

So here's a few pictures. The wiring to the head unit is easy enough to adapt. The stock connection has right/left speakers, unswitched power, switched power, ground and antenna-up signals. The head unit has that plus rear speakers and then subwoofer outputs on RCA connectors. (Pic 1) Note the extra connector that goes to the rear speaker 4-pin connector.

The door speaker (Pics 2 and 3) are the Blaupunkt speakers on the bench and then installed. I'd taken these out of another 928 and mounted up nicely. Still sound good. The cut-open door panels show the speakers. Kind of low-tech but I like the look.

An issue with the head is that the "antenna" wire is unused. I needed to grab the power amp ON signal for the antenna. Wait... "Antenna?" Yep. The power antenna was beyond repair so I got a Uro knock-off and put it in. Now, when the head unit is ON the antenna goes up. That's true even when it's on CD or other non-radio input. It's a fun touch, I think, and will be stylish driving at the track.
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File Type: jpg RadioWiring.jpg (193.7 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg BlauSpeakers.jpg (190.5 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg DoorSpeaker.jpg (208.6 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 06-24-2019, 10:34 PM   #206
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Default Center console and jump post cover

Here's how it looks with the head unit installed. The trim doesn't quite fit right but the single-DIN head fit well enough. I still haven't gotten a center console that wasn't cut to fit a bigger radio if not a double-DIN unit.

And it was 9:10 when I snapped the pic. Nice to see the clock working well.

When digging around for bits, I spotted a jump-post cover. Not perfect but better than nothing.

A nice part of this project was that only the antenna needed to be purchased. The rest of it was on shelves from salvaging cars and other projects. There's also a power amp and some 10" subs waiting that I'm planning to install once the cage is done.

Oh yeah... the cage. Sometimes life inhibits progress.
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File Type: jpg RadioConsole.jpg (220.0 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg JumpPostCover.jpg (117.8 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 07-08-2019, 10:19 PM   #207
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Default Power Steering Pump failure

This isn't a good look. Got the trailer closed and the car packed up. I was at the track and after 3 DE sessions noticed a puddle under the engine. A closer look showed it was ATF from the PS pump.

The odd part was that it wasn't coming from the obvious spots. it was dripping pretty quickly for having the engine off. Not coming from the fluid feed banjo or the high pressure fitting. Not coming from the hoses or off the reservoir. Not coming from the front seal. All I could find was the it'd drip off the middle of the pump. Didn't look to be the rear plate, either.

So packed it up.
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File Type: jpg ClosedTrailer.jpg (192.0 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 07-08-2019, 10:30 PM   #208
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Default PS pump front seal

I've got a pile of parts so grabbed a likely-looking PS pump, put a new seal on the front, and put it in. So far, so good.

I've got a few seals, too. Got five a few years back as free samples. These are 42 x 20 x 7 oil seals. I forget the material. It's a "Double lip" with TC profile and in neoprene? ATF requires a more chemical-resistant material. Anyways... Popped one on the replacement pump for a bit more confidence. The seal can be driven in pretty far. I'm not sure if it's supposed to be driven all the way against the bearing or not. After 50 miles it's still dry.

The oil pump shaft seal goes in only flush with the housing. If that is put too far back the seal is eaten by the pump itself. Looking at the two pumps, the seals were both back from the housing but not fully seated. We'll see how it goes.

The last pic is the former pump. I noticed it collected some fluid on the back. The back also struck me as a different make that the other pumps I've seen. Maybe the o-ring there failed, but the leak seemed to be coming from the body.

The shop that inspected the car before the track season (local PCA needs that) said the PS belt was too loose. Those are hard to tension and I use a 3' crowbar on it. Maybe it's cracked but the housing is pretty solid and I didn't see anything odd. The belt is actually a lot easier to tension from underneath. A short pry bar helps give the belt tight and the bolt that needs to be tightened is easy to see.

So... Back to the track later this month. Still shaking down the car, it seems.
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File Type: jpg PSfrontSeal1.jpg (231.5 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg PSfrontSeal2.jpg (165.6 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg PSpump.jpg (256.0 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 07-29-2019, 10:00 PM   #209
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Default At the track

Got the car out on the track again. This time, not the best result. The overflow/separator tank is getting filled with oil in about a half hour. That's almost two quarts. I'm suspicious of the piston rings. I'll be getting into the diagnosis in the next day or two.

At least the power steering pump did not leak.

Looks pretty good, though.
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File Type: jpg TrackJul19.jpg (285.6 KB, 1 views)
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Unread 08-01-2019, 09:50 PM   #210
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Default

I ran a compression test on the engine today. The numbers aren't terrible. I've seen much wider spreads on other engines. I did re-test #8 as it was done last and showed 120 on the first test. I'll still run a leak-down. Compression testing is harder and more revealing.

1 - 140
2 - 140
3 - 130
4 - 150
5 - 145
6 - 145
7 - 140
8 - 130
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