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Unread 12-04-2012, 04:35 PM   #1
bleucamaro
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Default 944S2 Supercharger Install

About 8 or 9 months ago, I bought a used Huntley Racing Supercharger kit. It had some unknown quantities when I bought it, including the chip, piggyback, MAP sensor, and fuel injectors. Some of the known quantities were not up to par either, including the belt, vacuum lines, and blower pulley. To simplify trouble shooting, I decided to do this install in a couple stages, starting with the computer. I had zero information on the piggyback that was supplied, so I ordered a "SMT-7" from Perfect Power, installed it using the wiring diagrams supplied, and the factory wiring diagrams. With it installed, I played a bit with the tune to make sure the thing worked, and it does, so I reverted to a factory tune and left that as is for several months. One of the beautiful things about the SMT 7 is the ability to tune using a wideband AFM, so that was stage 2: Install wideband. I wend with an Innovate kit that included the LC-1 (sensor and controller) and gauge. The gauge is temporarily mounted in the cubby under the stereo, but needs a more permanant mount.

Since I have this week off work, I figured its a good time to get things started, considering my pace when working on cars: slow to super slow.

1st off, here's the kit as I bought it with some stuff not shown.
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And here is the progress I've made.

Turn on headligts, Open hood.
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Remove front valence.
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Remove broken old airbox, and put headlights down, disconnect battery.
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Remove AFM and bracket. That bottom nut is a pain to reach.
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Remove Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel Rail Cover, disconnect throttle from intake manifold.
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Snip fuel injector wire harness zip ties, remove fuel injector clips, remove fuel damper, and remove the fuel rail.
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Disconnect breather tubes to throttle, coolant tubes to throttle, vacuum line to throttle, TPS sensor connector, throttle from manifold, and wire harness from injectors.
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Disconnect misc. breather tubes, vacuum lines and temp sensor from manifold. Unbolt the manifold to engine mount bracket, unbolt manifold from head. Remove manifold.
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The valves look pretty good, and there seems to be oil/fuel build up on the runners on #1 & #4 cyl. From what I can see looking into the #2 cyl is very clean, I'd like to view it through a fiberoptic bore-scope (if I can find one). The manifold also has oil residue built up on the 1 & 4 runners.

Well, my break is about over, I need to get back to work.
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Unread 12-04-2012, 04:38 PM   #2
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Well, I've got it in now, and got past a couple hurdles, one being the idler roller installation, and one the wiring of the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) and IAT (intake air temperature) sensors. The wiring is a bit of a crapshoot, and I'll find out if its correct when I start the car. For the MAP and IAT sensors, I wired into the AFM (Air Fuel Meter) harness, using the +5, signal, and ground to wire to the 2bar MAP sensor, and used the +5 and 4th wire (temp signal?) to the IAT.

The roller installation was a pain in the butt. They install on the alternator mounting holes, using longer bolts, spacers, and idler rollers. The problem is the longer bolts. They require the removal of the fan shroud and affiliated hardware, or the removal of the alternator/AC cast bracket. No problem I think, its only 4 bolts. Little did I know how precise the fit of the AC and alternator are to this bracket. Needless to say, it was a pain getting it back together, but brute-force and foul language prevailed.

Here is the blower and intake mocked in place.
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Click the image to open in full size.

Currently, the intake is bolted in, the fuel rail is installed, the IAT is wired and connected, the MAP is wired but not connected, and the intake temp switch needs longer wires to connect up. luckily it uses generic slip-on type spade connectors.

I also just got the new pulley in today, and fitted it on, and slipped the belt on. All thats left to do is bypass the throttle body's coolant passage (know where I can get some 3/8" copper or Al or stainless tubing, reletively thin walled?) and connect the vacuum lines and that temp sensor.

More to come later.

Well, its all in, and I needed to update this page. with a final product pic, so see below. Its 99.9% done and runs fine. I do need to get a longer idle circuit hose and a couple hose clamps and thats it.

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Unread 12-04-2012, 04:41 PM   #3
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Well this will be the tuning post, I got it running this evening (7/17/2006), but it barely runs. The good news is theres no fuel leaks. The bad news is I wired the MAP sensor backwards despite a what a diagram I found shows. Aside from that, it runs REALLY fat. The wideband was indicating about 9.1 near idle, and I had to keep a bit of throttle in it to get it to idle, which was rough, which sounded very lopey, which was both neat, and disconcerting. The car wouldn't run with closed throttle, but I attribute this to the MAP sensor being outa whack, and being so rich.

The 9.1 AFR on the wideband tells me something that I didn't want to hear, the SMT-7 closed loop system is not working as thought before. Again, this could be from the MAP being backwards causing some problems.

When running, things started to smooth out about 2000rpm, and I didn't take it beyond 2500, but it felt much more ready to rev (Perhaps from shorter throttle travel).

update 7/28/2006: It seems I had some wiring gremlins and got the MAP sensor wired correctly, but still had a very rich running condition. I then noticed I was getting approx. 5 volts from the intake temp sensor. I unwired the sensor and checked the resistance across it and saw 5Mohms, way high. I disconnected the pigtail to the sensor and saw that the pins are out of whack, I measured the resistance accross just the sensor and saw the normal 3kohms, so I'm going to buy a new pigtail today.

update 8/5/2006: I got the wiring sorted and was still having some problems with a rich condition that turned out to be a bad calibration on the wideband O2 sensor. I recallibrated it, and now the car is running much better. now its just a matter of dialing in the tune on the PC. I'm much happier now, and the boost feels pretty darn good.

update 10/24/2006: The tuning proved to be a difficult task on the street (even with a veteran tuner working the laptop in the right seat), so I took the car to Schatz and Krum who are BMW and Porsche mechanics with a Mustang Dyno. Stewart there was very helpful and knowlegable, so I left the car with him to tune. He was able to get 220rwhp on the mustang dyno (which netoriously read low). I didn't get a nifty dyno plot because the car was pretty heat-soaked by the time he got done tuning on it, but I was told I can bring it back any time and get a run in . As for a comparison on the numbers, stock e36 M3's (240crank hp) consistantly dyno at 165whp on his dyno. That means 165/240=220/x --> 220/(165/240) = x = 320 crank hp. I think this number is a bit agressive, but still impressive. I've attached some pics from the dyno shop.
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Unread 12-10-2012, 04:34 PM   #4
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Nice write up, nice work. Congrats! How is it on the street?
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Unread 02-18-2013, 08:48 PM   #5
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On the street the drive-ability was nearly identical to stock, but with more power. Sometimes it did seem the piggyback was fighting with the ECU, and A stand alone engine management would have been a better solution, but much more expensive. Since installing, I have returned the car to stock, sold the kit, and then sold the car. I think Darren still has it up in Portlandia.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 03:54 AM   #6
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The car wouldn't run with closed throttle.



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