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Unread 11-14-2011, 12:22 AM   #61
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My God this is beautiful... And it was worth the wait for the update.
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Unread 12-12-2011, 03:14 AM   #62
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Short of a full custom tube frame special a la 944 GTR this is the best build out there!!
I'm interested in the axles and hubs. Are these available Julian? Would Quaiffe make more?
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Unread 12-12-2011, 06:58 AM   #63
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Patrick,

Thanks for your kind comments. I have enjoyed the work on the car, though I never expected it to take so long. I've been finishing the chassis and dash wiring and will have some photos in a bit of this work.

I don't know about the availabilty of the half-shafts. The ones I obtained (in 2000) were from Porsche in Germany and are original to the 968 turbo cars. The inner CV joints are the same as for 928's and newer 911's. The outer ones are combined stub axles and CV's like the newer 911's have. Geoffrey has a terrific thread on rebuilding this style on Rennlist. I haven't purchased a 911 axle to see if the outer joints are the same as these but I'd expect they are.

I have more spare transmission flanges than I need if you find suitable axles and can make them available to you if you like.

Your car's work is terrific as well--I really like what Dave has done for you.
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Unread 12-13-2011, 07:55 AM   #64
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Sounds interesting Julian. I don't know that I've heard of too many people that have gone to such an extent on those transmission pieces. Of course there have been many who have run through standard 951 or 968 trannys and lived to tell the tale. I have opted for a strengthened 968 case with extra internal cooling mods and a Mocal cooler like you. It will be run by the Motec unit that I've changed to. I've also got the stronger axles and cages Lindsey Racing offer. I'm not sure if this will prove to be a problem for gearbox internals or the hubs themselves? Time will tell. Have you kept stock gearing or changed it? I kept stock as I thought I was in more of a hurry than it transpired. Still not sure if it's such a bad thing anyway. Guess it depends on a combination of things.
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Unread 12-13-2011, 08:15 AM   #65
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It is hard to tell what combination will be best when you build a project over time. I kept the stock gearing in this transmission, adding only the cooling and a GT LSD. I recall Chris Cervelli telling me about the half shafts and output flanges at a Club Race and that's how I found out they were available. I got the last (one) transmission output flange from Porsche and then had the ones made from that example. I must have looked at ten different flanges from various 911's (great parts help back then) but none exactly matched both the seal surface and the differential.
I like the idea of using the MoTeC to run the pump and fan (Geoffrey also does this on his 964) but I'll have to add a temp sensor to the transmission before I can make that work.
I hope these axles do well for me. I suppose at some future date I could always ask Cartridge to make me some!
I suppose I've put my stake in the ground and said, "the present configuration is what you need to build to", otherwise I'll never get this car finished!
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Unread 12-17-2011, 02:16 AM   #66
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Ha, yes I know what you mean. It seems that it would be possible to just keep spending money on these builds and have them never leave the workshop. Unlike our respective partners who would/could/should have us left long before!!

Eventually you have to bite the bullet and just get the car out on the track and accept whatever happens and go from there. It's easy to get into a mindset where you try and insure against potential breakage or failure. Perhaps sometimes it's overkill and you'll never know if your modified part doesn't fail. As in, "Hmm, I wonder if I needed to change that afterall?" I'm hoping the beefed up axles, case, and extra cooling will do the trick. As for the gearing. There seems to be varied opinions and of course this is largely determined by the longest straight on your local track, but some have suggested that the stock 968 gearing is too short for a high powered turbo car. To add, there is the turbo, cam etc to consider too. I'll have to look back and see what you've gone for in this dept. I'm stuck with my mostly stock 2.5L with a GT3076 on it for now. The racemotor hasn't quite made it's way down here yet.

As ever, look forward to your updates.
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Unread 07-09-2012, 07:28 AM   #67
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I am so far behind in posting progress! So many things going on--two new grandchildren (up to five now), and if you don't believe that will keep you busy, JUST WAIT!!

I have worked on the wiring and have nearly completed the non electronics part. All Tefzel, and I used Deutsch connectors that allow me to remove the dash fairly easily. Here are a couple of photos of the backside of the dash. The dashboard, by the way, is a Crawford Composites piece, weighs about two pounds, and I used it with Autometer gauges in the previous racer. Plans are for a MoTeC SDL, so the part with all the holes will receive a cover piece of carbon fiber--like a blank slate--to mount things to.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

I'm using P&B toggle circuit breakers which function as both switch and circuit protection. Although it may look like a large number of switches close together, effectively this is the fuse panel. Most of the breakers share a common buss bar, but some receive their line power from a relay.

I'll get some more photos of the other side, and a nifty new panel for some of the switches. Stay tuned!!
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Unread 07-09-2012, 02:20 PM   #68
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And here are some shots of the other side of the dash.

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Click the image to open in full size.

You can see the fire extinguisher switch, master off (from the 996/993 cars), and the starter switch all on the left. In the middle you can see the circuit breakers and the "ancillary" panel, which holds a reverse indicator, fuel pump selector switch, defog switch, standard 944 light switch, and a foglight switch. There's a reserved space for the map switch. And, there's a flasher switch (might be useful for full course cautions) which is interesting: the switch is shared by the new Beetle and the Carrera GT! I saw it in a photo of a recent RSR (maybe an 09?) and PMNA provided the bracket to mont the switch to the panel. On the right you can see the (recessed) box with the extinguisher battery and electronics, and an hour meter (the only gauge I'll keep from my old car). The rectangle in the middle used to house a lap timer, but the center net blocks my view of this area, so I haven't decided what to put in its place. Finally, you can see the swaybar adjuster box to the right of the shifter. Progress is progress!

Click the image to open in full size.

This is the way I arranged the outside switches for the master off and the fire extingisher. I'll be using only one wiper--the center spot--and keep it vertical, which will then sweep to the drivers side and back.

Until next time!
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Unread 04-25-2013, 12:14 AM   #69
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Any updates?
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Unread 04-29-2013, 08:41 AM   #70
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A lot of waiting going on, some minor progress.

Waiting for headwork, exhaust bits.

I've selected a cam, have my eyes on a turbo, more on that to follow.

I have routed oil lines from the tank into the engine compartment. The suction line runs in the front boxed area, enters just in front of the water return hose from the radiator. I'm using Earl's corrugated Teflon, and inside the frame thought the stainless braid would be best. Little bit of a challenge to snake the line through, and -16 fittings (usually crimped on) will not clear the internal weldments for the crossmember threaded parts. So, I found a suitable threaded on fitting and with the access for the brake cooling I was able to attach the fitting. I believe I'm going to use hardline to get close to the pump, then a short piece of flex line to finish the mounting.

Sometimes all I do is look at the car, ponder, and write myself notes!!

Waiting for parts is certainly slowing things, but we've been acquiring grandchildren as well! Five at last count, number six due late summer. Bring three (1, 3, 5) to your house and you won't have any time to work on any other project!!

Further engine news coming, but let me get the parts first!
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Unread 04-29-2013, 07:53 PM   #71
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I have some shots of the manifold. JME barrel valve--something I have wanted since Jon first put photos up on his website.

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I'm also working on putting Lexan in the rear hatch, and I'll see about some shots of the wing mounts and wing.
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Unread 05-03-2013, 11:42 AM   #72
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Awesome!
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Unread 12-24-2013, 09:00 AM   #73
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I feel badly for the lack of progress and associated lack of posts. There's still a lot of waiting for parts on order. Hopefully next year will represent a turning point in the car's construction. For now--Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all!!
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Unread 06-12-2014, 02:53 PM   #74
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I have made some progress, and will post photos and the update later today.
I've got more time on my hands now, so maybe we'll see this project to completion!
I've sent some stuff for machine work. More about that to follow. But, for now, this thread is back at the top!
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Unread 06-12-2014, 09:30 PM   #75
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Default Lexan hatch construction

In constructing the Lexan hatch, I searched and read over a couple of years, and came to the conclusion that a combination of fasteners and urethane would be the ticket. I had my prior 944T car's frame, and the first thing I did was strip the powdercoating off. I hate this part of the work.
I purchased my Lexan from Apex Performance (http://www.apexperformance.net/) and was very pleased with this--it required minimal trimming to fit perfectly. Came with a sprayed on coating of plastic which both protected the finish while I procrastinated, and came in handy during the work.

Here is the frame with my choice of fastener location. You can see both sides of the frame. I wanted to have the fasteners far enough from the edge, but was also trying to have a tapped hole and avoid a nut on the inside. 8-32 screws filled the bill: I used stainless black oxide coated screws from Fastenal.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Most of the holes turned out well, with full diameter threads in two locations. I drilled from the inside, because the groove in the glass mount side wasn't in line with my desired location. 25 or 30 fasteners.


Here's the trial fitting, using welding clamps to hold the Lexan in place. It was easy to see where it was too tight, and a little rasp action fixed that.
The supports came from Crawford Composites, just as all the carbon and Kevlar components in the car. Max was very easy to work with.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.



Once I got my holes drilled in both the frame and the Lexan, I wanted to mask the edges as you see with most auto glass now. I drew on the protective plastic, then scored the surface, removed the outside, and used black urethane primer. It worked okay, but took two coats, and the solvent penetrated the plastic in a few places. But hey, it's a race car!

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.



Then a layer of urethane, lay the Lexan and supports in place, and loosely fasten the screws: I wanted a layer of urethane about 1/16-1/8" to bring the Lexan out to the glass thickness.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.



You can buy complete trim around the periphery of the hatch from the dealer using 924 numbers for cars without a spoiler . That's what I then put on, and it really finished the edges.

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Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.



So there it is, about two weeks of work (at my pace) but it does represent progress! Enjoy!
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