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Unread 11-13-2013, 11:02 AM   #76
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So soften the tar and then force it out. Seems like a plan. The windshield had a long L-shaped crack running from the side to almost the mirror but probably would have held together. I could have vacuumed anyways.
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Unread 11-18-2013, 03:29 AM   #77
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... I purchased a tool to cut the glue with a "L" shaped blade off eBay. $7 so what can go wrong? The box said "Harbor Freight" and, sure enough, the blade broke almost immediately. Plan B was to get a long Sawzall blade and cut the glue from the inside but that proved unwieldy. I also found that my attempts cut into the metal frame....
The tool I've seen a glass guy use is a sort of piano wire garrotte. One end of the wire gets pushed through the bead and reattached to the handle. Then the wire is pulled around the windshield by the handles, cutting the bead. Sounds weird but worked a treat.
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Unread 11-18-2013, 10:57 AM   #78
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The tool I've seen a glass guy use is a sort of piano wire garrotte. One end of the wire gets pushed through the bead and reattached to the handle. Then the wire is pulled around the windshield by the handles, cutting the bead. Sounds weird but worked a treat.
I have seen this as well. Haven't tried it myself though.
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Unread 11-18-2013, 01:58 PM   #79
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We've tried that piano wire (and zip tie) method and the windshield always cracks. Best one we saw was what the windshield guy at Sharktoberfest used. He mounted a reciprocating saw with a large flat metal blade spatula (about 3 inches wide) and coated it with liquid soap...and shoved it under the glass from the inside..and started it up..it sort of "cut" the butyl bead... (soap kept it from resealing)...all the way round and then pushed the window out...

Any pressure from the inside usually cracks the glass...this method just cuts in and out...sliding under the glass...
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Unread 11-19-2013, 01:57 AM   #80
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He mounted a reciprocating saw with a large flat metal blade spatula
That sounds good. Not on the wall at Home Despot, unfortunately.
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Unread 11-25-2013, 12:23 PM   #81
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That sounds good. Not on the wall at Home Despot, unfortunately.
Actually, you made me think of multitools ...

http://www.homedepot.com/s/multi%2520tool?NCNI-5

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...lt?q=multitool
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Unread 11-26-2013, 03:41 PM   #82
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Actually, you made me think of multitools ...
I thought about that. It'd be a good addition to my tool weaponry. Hanging on the wall at Home Despot, too, I'll wager.
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Unread 12-03-2013, 01:46 AM   #83
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The clutch felt a little funny a week ago. It's been funny since I got the car, actually, but this was extra funny. The pedal was getting stiff about half-way down and not going farther. The clutch was releasing so could drive it.

This means it's time to try to fix it, do some WYAIT fixes and put in some cool parts! The list was like this:

New clutch slave
New black hose for clutch
Replace the starter
New polyurethane swaybar bushings
Heim joint swaybar drop links
Bleed the brakes

The work all went pretty well. Most of the time was spent replacing the clutch slave and the starter. Removing the starter is always a pain. If you've done it on a 5-speed you know the hard line to the clutch slave interferes with access to one bolt for the starter. This time I disconnected the hard line to the clutch slave, removed the clutch slave from the clutch cover, and then removed the clutch cover with the starter still attached. Installation was just reverse of that.

Looking into the clutch cover (aka lower bellhousing cover) I spotted a small bolt. That was one that holds the pilot bearing guide tube in. It went back in and there looked to be no problems there. The clutch discs, from what I could see, looked OK.

Bleeding the clutch went well. I did the main bleeding by pumping the rod on the clutch. I'd force it back and pop open the bleeder then close the bleeder and let the rod extend out. Helps to point the bleeder up a bit. I pump-bled it from the pedal later but o air seemed to come out. Feels nice and firm.

I like the new poly bushings. It's a better solution than the generic bushings commonly used and that I have on my other 928. The blue poly bushings are almost exactly the same shape as the stock bushings and mount up perfectly. These are available on eBay.

The drop links are put together from bits I got on McMaster-Carr. The mounting bolts are 12mm. The spherical rod ends (aka Heim joint) then also have a 12mm threaded hole. Some 12mm threaded bar stock cut to length and it's done.

How is all that related to an odd clutch? Well, I had the slave and will be replacing all the rubber hoses so it seemed like a good step in resolving a problem. The rest was just convenient.
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Unread 12-28-2013, 06:40 PM   #84
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Picture, in your mind, the above picture with two jam nuts on the threaded rod. Actually, regular nuts were used. The problem being that Porsche uses 1.5mm and 1.25mm pitch M12 bolts so I had no 1.75mm nuts handy. After a short period of contemplation, I got a bunch and fixed what might not have been a problem.

Since it was the holidays, I placed a good-sized order of parts (mostly used) from my friends at 928 International. I'll be working those in over the next few months and trying to get the electrics right.

Had the car out for a warm-up run today. It's 42F in Minneapolis as I write this. That's positively sweltering for the end of December. It'll be near 0F or below for the next three days so seemed like a good day for a drive.

Things worked fairly well. I even found the AC switching vents a bit and all fan speeds were working. There's something odd with the clutch as it didn't seem to be opening well. Maybe the discs aren't free on the intermediate shaft. Sometimes ground hard into gear and sometimes worked fine. I'll get to that after dropping the whole drivetrain from engine to tranny sometime. Yeah, sometime when the forecast includes 70s. The unheated garage is less appealing than it used to be.
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Last edited by GlenL; 12-28-2013 at 06:58 PM.
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Unread 12-29-2013, 09:37 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenL View Post
Picture, in your mind, the above picture with two jam nuts on the threaded rod. Actually, regular nuts were used. The problem being that Porsche uses 1.5mm and 1.25mm pitch M12 bolts so I had no 1.75mm nuts handy. After a short period of contemplation, I got a bunch and fixed what might not have been a problem.

Since it was the holidays, I placed a good-sized order of parts (mostly used) from my friends at 928 International. I'll be working those in over the next few months and trying to get the electrics right.

Had the car out for a warm-up run today. It's 42F in Minneapolis as I write this. That's positively sweltering for the end of December. It'll be near 0F or below for the next three days so seemed like a good day for a drive.

Things worked fairly well. I even found the AC switching vents a bit and all fan speeds were working. There's something odd with the clutch as it didn't seem to be opening well. Maybe the discs aren't free on the intermediate shaft. Sometimes ground hard into gear and sometimes worked fine. I'll get to that after dropping the whole drivetrain from engine to tranny sometime. Yeah, sometime when the forecast includes 70s. The unheated garage is less appealing than it used to be.

do portable heaters make much of difference?
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Unread 12-30-2013, 09:30 AM   #86
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do portable heaters make much of difference?
Heaters help somewhat. The garage is insulated along three sides and the door is also insulated. The roof is not, however.

I've tried electric space heaters but the 20A circuit isn't enough. I've got a small propane heater but it doesn't heat the place and the fumes don't dissipate. There is a wood burner out there and it kicks a lot of heat but that takes a long time to warm the garage, and the contents.

What I really need is a natural gas "warehouse" heater. I could fire it up Friday evening and the cars and tools would be warm for the weekend.

If you haven't worked in super cold conditions, it's the temperature of the tools and parts that is hard to deal with. The air temp itself isn't a problem. Then there's issues with sealants and if torques are right.
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Unread 12-30-2013, 10:47 AM   #87
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Heaters help somewhat. The garage is insulated along three sides and the door is also insulated. The roof is not, however.

I've tried electric space heaters but the 20A circuit isn't enough. I've got a small propane heater but it doesn't heat the place and the fumes don't dissipate. There is a wood burner out there and it kicks a lot of heat but that takes a long time to warm the garage, and the contents.

What I really need is a natural gas "warehouse" heater. I could fire it up Friday evening and the cars and tools would be warm for the weekend.

If you haven't worked in super cold conditions, it's the temperature of the tools and parts that is hard to deal with. The air temp itself isn't a problem. Then there's issues with sealants and if torques are right.
the coldest i have worked is 20s - 30s in a non heated garage. That concrete floor is very cold when you are lying on your back.
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Unread 01-07-2014, 01:17 PM   #88
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Heaters help somewhat. The garage is insulated along three sides and the door is also insulated. The roof is not, however.

I've tried electric space heaters but the 20A circuit isn't enough. I've got a small propane heater but it doesn't heat the place and the fumes don't dissipate. There is a wood burner out there and it kicks a lot of heat but that takes a long time to warm the garage, and the contents.

What I really need is a natural gas "warehouse" heater. I could fire it up Friday evening and the cars and tools would be warm for the weekend.

If you haven't worked in super cold conditions, it's the temperature of the tools and parts that is hard to deal with. The air temp itself isn't a problem. Then there's issues with sealants and if torques are right.
I've done repairs on the dirt on my back in minus 5 C temperatures. I know what it is like. Brrrrrr. Gives me nightmares just thinking about it.
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Unread 03-09-2014, 08:06 PM   #89
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Any news on this car?
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Unread 03-10-2014, 12:58 PM   #90
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Thanks for asking, but not really. I got a box of parts from 928Intl in early January and haven't gotten to it. Replacing some exhaust parts and removing the air injection are coming up.

The winter has been epic here with over 50 days where temps were below zero Fahrenheit. That curtails my ambition.
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