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Unread 05-02-2011, 12:20 PM   #46
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Frustratingly, my fresh axles didn't make any difference to the sound my car makes from the rear at highway speed. The old ones were in pretty rough shape, anyway, so I don't feel too bad about having changed them, but the phantom noise persists, and I want it gone!

I'll try my best to describe it, but I'm kind of at a loss for a description: at 100Km/h, I hear a "bloo-ba-loop" noise at a highish frequency that you could probably still make with your voice. Roughly one noise per second.

It is unquestionably speed-linked, as it decreases in pitch, volume and frequency below 100Km/h, and increases slightly above it. It's definitely from the rear, on smooth roads as well as rough ones (though it's much harder to hear on rough roads). I haven't noticed much difference when turning a corner (either right or left).

Anyone have any thoughts?
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Unread 05-02-2011, 03:54 PM   #47
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Wheel bearing?
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Unread 05-02-2011, 04:06 PM   #48
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That was what I had been thinking, too, only it doesn't get noticeably louder when I turn left or right. At least, not that I can notice.
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Unread 05-02-2011, 05:17 PM   #49
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Rear wheel bearing?
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Unread 05-02-2011, 05:58 PM   #50
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This is what I've been fearing...
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Unread 05-02-2011, 06:16 PM   #51
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This is what I've been fearing...
If you decide to do them, let me know, I have the arnworks tool, works like a charm!
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Unread 05-02-2011, 09:33 PM   #52
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Oh, sweet! Can you do it without taking off the arm?
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Unread 05-02-2011, 10:02 PM   #53
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Oh, sweet! Can you do it without taking off the arm?
Yup... Pull the axles, the rear hubs, the axle stub shafts, press out the old bearings, press in the new ones, install the hub shaft and hub, install the axles..

OH, BTW, the Bearings are like $45 each, the nuts are 1 time use self locking, and you will need to have a big ass torque wrench to reach 270 ft lbs iirc...

You will have to beat the stub shafts out using a soft face mallet, but they can draw back in when you put the nuts on..
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Unread 05-05-2011, 10:53 PM   #54
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Evenly heat the arm around the bearing to over 100C then pull the bearing. It will come out without scratch the aluminum. Then deep freeze the bearing and reheat the hub. With heavy gloves, just pop the bearing into place...count to three and you will not be able to pull it back out. Just be quick, you have a couple of seconds to get the bearing seated before it will not move anymore. Its almost magic.
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Unread 05-09-2011, 01:30 AM   #55
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I installed my rear interior quarter panels this weekend, along with a Redline roll bar:

Click the image to open in full size.

Did you know that the seat belt bolts have SAE threads? I didn't. 7/16-20, for the record. Do not ask me how long it took me to figure that out this morning. Frack.

Anyway, the roll bar required a change (and temporary massive reduction) of the amplifier range, so the big GT-50 and GT-24 are out for now, in favour of a single GT-40.

Accordingly, I went from this:

Click the image to open in full size.

To this:

Click the image to open in full size.

Here it is wired up. The smaller thing to the left is a sound processor.

Click the image to open in full size.

I don't have any finished photos of the rear seat delete in this new configuration, but it's basically the same as the old one:

Click the image to open in full size.

...but with a roll bar sticking out of it, and my fire extinguisher hung on the passenger side vertical of the bar.
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Unread 05-09-2011, 11:30 AM   #56
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Looking good Charlie...

Do you plan on leaving the roll bar installed? Licensing authority down here gets all kind of weird about cars will partial or full cages installed during road safety inspections, and they are required anually...
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Unread 05-09-2011, 12:03 PM   #57
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Charlie, this may sound silly, but have you ruled out tires as the culprit for the RE noise?

Car is looking good!
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Unread 05-09-2011, 12:12 PM   #58
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JoKA, I do, until I'm told to do otherwise (I know you know, but for the sake of clarity in the thread, the Redline bar is only aft of the driver). We don't have any inspections up here, and if pressed or threatened with roadside impound, I could unbolt it in a few minutes if I absolutely had to.

You raise a point that I have been going back and forth on since I started DE a couple of years ago: I want some extra security on track, but not at the substantial expense of on-road safety. There aren't many DE rollovers, but properly holding a harness has become a priority, and if I ended up upside down with a harness on, I would far rather have the roll bar in place.

A full cage was definitely out, since this is about a 50% road + fun car. There are a number of excellent reasons NOT to have any kind of additional structure in a road-going car (most notably, that the jaws of life and other emergency rescue tools are designed to be able to cut through the pillars) but because I'm going to proper harnesses and FIA buckets shortly, this is what I figured would be best.

Indy951: I'm pretty sure I have, as I'm on the third set of tires with the same noise. I have to admit that I swapped the first set a little early because I suspected them, too, though.

My mechanic reminded me that a non-constant noise is more likely to be something with moving parts (like an axle) than a bearing. I'm going to take it to him today and see what he thinks.
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Unread 05-09-2011, 12:35 PM   #59
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A full cage was definitely out, since this is about a 50% road + fun car. There are a number of excellent reasons NOT to have any kind of additional structure in a road-going car (most notably, that the jaws of life and other emergency rescue tools are designed to be able to cut through the pillars) but because I'm going to proper harnesses and FIA buckets shortly, this is what I figured would be best.

My mechanic reminded me that a non-constant noise is more likely to be something with moving parts (like an axle) than a bearing. I'm going to take it to him today and see what he thinks.
My 2 comments for you here are:
Jaws of life WILL cut through a full frame, and if they have a problem, they also carry saws designed to cut through rapidly.. just trust me on this.. the real top reasons to NOT drive a full cage on the street is because the cage will do what it is designed to do, however you do NOT want this to happen in the event of a roll over on the street when you dont have a helmet on.. because the cage WILL crush your skull should your head make contact with it sans helmet.. not to mention the damage to another non-caged car should you have an accident...

And second, I would tend to agree with your mechanic, however the late 944 rear bearing are pressed in sealed units, and will make intermittant noises.. remember the axle stubs are press to fit to the bearings...
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Unread 05-09-2011, 03:14 PM   #60
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I figured that the jaws of life could cut through the bars, but that the bigger issue might be interference with using the tool. I definitely agree that a full cage doesn't belong on the street.

I just dropped the car off with my mechanic for a tech inspection prior to a DE this weekend. I asked him to listen to the noise and tell me what he thinks.

It was an enjoyable afternoon for a drive!
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