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Old 11-18-2016, 06:56 PM   #136
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The '79 had the EGR system. That's all gone now but I had to fix the holes. Here's my attempt on the valve. It's just two pieces of 3/16" steel with an old exhaust gasket underneath. The right gasket would be better but this is temporary. I bent the upper plate a bit to press in the middle. It may leak a bit but I'm not concerned.

What may be a problem is the tube port on the inside. I think that's for exhaust sampling or something like that. It was broken off and the fitting broke, too. So, I drilled out the hole and tried to tap it. That wasn't working so I grabbed a big self-tapping bolt and...cracked the manifold. With my options being to swap in a manifold or go with it, I went with it. One bolt on that manifold was broken off when I got it and I fixed that. I didn't want to do that again. So, put some JB Weld into the hole to seal a bit and drove the bolt back in. Might just break off or leak but I've had worse. It is temporary, after all.
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Old 11-18-2016, 06:58 PM   #137
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Since pictures are fun, here's the '79 engine on the hook. Notice the third chain going diagonally and how flat the engine is. Made it easy to drop in. No intake on the engine but I wanted to make space in the garage and get the "Zombie" back on the ground. It's winter here, suddenly, and I need the second stall.
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Old 12-14-2016, 11:55 PM   #138
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Been a while in process, but I've gotten the CIS worked out enough to put a '79 engine into the '80 S. It starts and runs but won't "take the gas" when I press the throttle. I've checked a lot but can't find the false air leak that I'm sure is there. The car will idle at 1200 RPM fairly smoothly and do so until I turn it off. It's unresponsive to changes in the idle setscrew. I'll get this figured out. At least it runs without blowing fluids about.

I did spend a lot of time working to make the CIS workon the bench and wanted to share those results. In the end, I couldn't get the flow rates balanced as well as I liked but they were pretty close and I had to get the project moving along. A bit of math came to form my struggle:

8 x 8 x 8 = 512

There are 8 metering valves and 8 springs and 8 shims. When I took the fuel distributor top-up, all the bits fell out and got mixed up. That leaves 512 combinations of hole, spring and shim to work out. Plus aging and diaphragm damage that may make it never have the cylinders get balanced. Avoid this first mistake and:

Always disassemble the fuel distributor up-side down and carefully track which parts go where.

I've posted a few times on this. I'll rehash that a bit for completeness.

Using a spare CIS fuel pump, I set up a bench-test system for the CIS. It's easy enough. My initial goal was to flush gas through the fuel distributor and injectors and get the system cleaned out before putting it into a car. The initial work was problematic with the system being clogged. So I resolved to rebuild the fuel distributor and clean the injectors. And that's when the fun started.

I've lost track of the number of times I had the fuel distributor apart. Likely 20 or more. Pull it apart. Clean it a bit, put it back together and try it out. A few things have come clear to me on this.

Always use a fuel filter going into the system.

It's OK to re-cycle the gas that come from the return line. I found real trouble putting the gas back into the system that was caught coming out of the fuel injectors or leaks. I suspect those were getting contaminated from the tubs I as using. Something was going on as using fresh gas got good results put pouring the "caught" gas back into the supply gas can often lead to clogging of the distributor and WUR.

The thin, simple "washers" below the springs are shims and are more critical is setting flow rate than the springs themselves. I started to track flow rates versus shim height and it was a very clear trend of the thicker shims producing higher flow rates. By moving the shims around and comparing flow rates from the injectors with no other changes I could see that some springs were stiffer. Or the diaphragm was more compliant there.

By moving the shims to get a gross balance and then moving the springs based on which were "stiff" and "soft" I could get the fuel distributor back into some sort of balance.

Be very careful when installing the 8 small o-rings around the central core. It's very easy to have one pop off, slip up, break or have an abrasion. The result being an injector that comes on full blast and the trial is wasted. It was handy to have a bag of 100 o-ring to use. The more assembly cycles the o-rings are used in, then more likely they are to fail.

One effort that went well was characterizing the fuel injectors. I swapped them, one-at-a-time, to a line that flowed well. This lead to finding 8 (out of 17) that had comparable flow rates and good patterns.

Something quite interesting was that the fuel distributor on the "S" car is an adjustable distributor. The model number matches the one off the '79 and is correct for the car: 0 438 100 027. But! Each valve in the fuel distributor has an Allen-key adjustment on its side. I hadn't seen this before, or heard it mentioned, and could find this feature on other 928s. It looks like something for a Ferrari 400. Carl at 928 Motorsports sells an alloy version of this type of unit for strong money. Picture below.
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Old 04-23-2017, 06:41 PM   #139
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What's wrong with this picture?

Well, lots of things. First off, it's a US '79 engine in an '80 Euro S car. I swapped in this donor engine so I can move and drive the car while working on the Euro S engine.

I do want to call attention to the fine use of off-the-shelf hose to replace hoses on the '79.

The fancy heated vent hose is gone. The heater line, for the coolant, is replace by some 3/8" fuel line running from the rear of the right head back to the crossover. I though about blocking them off, maybe with a plate on the head, but put in a hose instead. For the vent line I've just got some big (1 1/4"?) water hose the runs over the side.

The hose from the auxiliary air regulator to the cold start valve was really crisp. That's replaced by some 3/4" heater hose and a couple of elbows. Had to go around the long way to make it work.

There's a similar approach for the brake booster. Easy to grab from the junk bins and make something work.

Check out the bright yellow wire for the alternator excitation. The original one inside that harness must have snapped off. There was 12V at the 14-pin connector but 0v at the alternator. Fixed now...

So I'm zooming the car around. The lower power level is really noticeable with 216 instead of 300hp. Maybe not tuned up so well, either. Still, it runs and drives and I can keep fixing the electrics and other things while pacing myself on the engines.
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Old 04-23-2017, 10:30 PM   #140
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Good progress. are you having any issues finding euro parts for the rebuild?
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Old 04-24-2017, 08:57 AM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlege View Post
Good progress. are you having any issues finding euro parts for the rebuild?
No... but I've been accumulating them for a while.

The main bearings are NLA but I spotted some on eBay. I've heard that the 97mm piston rings can be hard to get but I ordered them when, apparently, they were in stock. Most of the engine parts are shared with other engines so are available.
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Old 12-03-2017, 04:08 PM   #142
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Default Getting back to it

I've started on the engine rebuild. This time it's the Euro S engine that came with the car. The car has a '79 US engine in it now.

I've gotten it apart with not much drama. It came apart fairly easily. Surprisingly, all the injector sleeves unscrewed just fine. One broken bolt on the heater hose outlet.

I'm trying to get the studs off the block and that's not going well. The plan is to have the deck milled to be flat. I've tried 4 or 5 and only one stud came loose. I'll see how it goes and may just let the machine shop remove them.

All the bearings looked and and the cylinders themselves are remarkably clean. Not a single scratch in any of them!

The outside of the engine was an oily mess with lots of caked-on, baked-on dirt. The inside is terrible. I ran synthetic oil in it thinking it'd clean up a bit but it's just black and gooey.
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Old 12-03-2017, 08:12 PM   #143
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bores do look great
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Old 03-24-2018, 12:55 PM   #144
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Default Parts!

Now that it's getting towards spring, the engine project is coming together. All the machine shop work is done. Here's the block and heads all clean and wrapped up. The block got some broken bolts fixed, including a stud I broke, and it's been decked about 0.005". That should help with gasket sealing.

The heads got a full valve job. One springs was broken but otherwise it just needed guides and seals and machine work. The shop also did some porting work. They made a larger radius on the inside of the intakes. No flow bench results. Minor surfacing to ensure it's flat. I should have had the cam tower surfaced as well to help sealing there.

The crank also got a check and a polish. No issues.

I thought about getting the pistons balanced and decided not to. I've asked for that in the past and have been told that they're pretty close to begin with. I'll spend the money elsewhere.

Almost all the parts are here. I've been collecting them for years. I found the correct bearing set on eBay that's been NLA for a couple of years. The 97mm rings are sometimes hard to find. I've been looking for a tougher top ring but can't find anything stock that'll fit.

I'm trying to decide on what to do with the studs. I'd like a full new set but the stock Porsche studs are not as stiff as the ones that are on there. I've thought about getting an ARP set. 928MS sells one.($480!) Looks like that's really two 944 2.5l sets with the two short studs pulled from another ARP Porsche kit. I might just salvage studs off the blocks I've got.

Otherwise, just waiting on the crank scraper kit from 928 Motorsports. My order for a kit from Ishihara-Johnson went awry and they refunded the money. I've been very happy with the I-J kit on my first track car.
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Old 03-25-2018, 08:00 PM   #145
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interested in seeing this engine put together. as far as studs. thats expensive but im not sure i would feel good about putting used studs on that block and heads
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Old 04-08-2018, 08:44 PM   #146
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Working on mundane cleaning and ordering final parts. Some improvising was necessary to get the cam towers apart.

This engine has the steel liners for the lifters. One side came apart fine but on the second that just wouldn't budge. This is Minnesota and the garage isn't heated so I thought that some heat would help. A propane torch didn't seem to heat the tower much so I got a bigger torch. (below) In this case, it's a sunflower heater mounted to a tank. The cam tower is clamped to a bench and sticks out over the heater. Worked like a charm. When the tower got hot to the touch the liners would slide out without much force.

This engine is really filthy inside. It ran great but it's amazing that it did. All the o-ring and rubber parts are solid and crunchy. It's no wonder there was so much oil on the outside.

Some of the lifters are stuck hard. I've gone to using a gear puller to force some action on the button. Eventually, they get to 1/8" or so of motion which I figure is OK. I've got some extra used lifters as back-ups but want to put the originals back in the same sleeves. So far, the lifters have loosened up without any obvious damage.

The next goal is to get these cam towers back together.
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Old 04-12-2018, 09:06 PM   #147
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Default Cam Tower assembly

I'm turning the corner on the project from disassembly and cleaning to re-assembly.

Got the cam towers together today. It took a long time to get it all ready for that. The towers and exterior parts were very dirty with caked-on, baked-on oily crud. It took about three hours per side to get it done. Assembly is about 45 minutes a side.

While checking the lifters, I found some problems. First-off, some of the lifters had zero play on the piston. Some moved freely for about 1/4" to 3/8" of stroke. For the stuck ones, I worked the piston a bit by pressing on it by hand but that didn't free them up. What did work was using a gear puller to force the piston down. Not good to do but we'll see if they're damaged. Applying some penetrating oil and working them made them all move well, eventually.

I'm not sure why some lifters were stuck solid. It might have been the pistons were seized or gunk inside was not letting the oil out of the piston or fill hole. I tried getting them apart but the piston is swaged in. It'd be fun to investigate but that'd be one that got replaced.

While getting the sleeves out, I apparently distorted a few. The lifter should slide through on its own weight but some stuck. Eyeballing, the sleeves were bent a tiny bit where there were vice-grips marks. Some 220 grit sandpaper took that down enough to get smooth motion. It's important that the lifters not only move up/down easily but turn as well. The cam lobes are a bit off-center with respect to the lifters so the lifters will turn a bit on each cycle. This motion evens out the wear on the lifter faces.

The towers went together well. I use a bit of RTV on the cork end seal as those tend to leak. An oddity is that the cap themselves are marked "Canada." I did not know that. I use Redline assembly lube on all of the contacting surfaces.

Only a few things left in the need-to-clean pile. Only a few minor parts that need to come in. Getting near to doing the rotating assembly assembly.
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Old 04-16-2018, 04:27 PM   #148
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Default Square toothed Gates timing belt

Here's something I didn't think existed. I searched but I couldn't find a US retailer that sold the square-toothed belt for older cars (through 1982) made by Gates.

The internet wisdom is that Gates belts stretch less than other manufacturer's belts. After searching all sorts of websites, I looked on eBay and found one out of the UK. It finally showed up and is the "unobtainable" Gates belt with square teeth. I half-suspected that a later belt with round teeth would show up in the box.
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