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Unread 11-04-2018, 08:54 PM   #196
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Default Removed the headliner

The car has a sunroof and that's got to be addressed. For one thing, at the track my helmet was touching the liner. A race seat should be lower but I'm not sure it'll be low enough. Also, the sunroof parts add weight in the top of the car. Maybe it's not critical but, in combination, I want it removed.

Getting the headliner out was a long process. The trick with the liner for a sunroof car is that the sunroof has to be open to release it from the opening. What I read didn't make sense until I saw it. When the liner is installed, the vinyl at the opening is wrapped back into the top of the opening and then glued and clamped down. It's really held quite strongly. About an inch of material goes under the rails for the sunroof itself and under trim pieces at the front and back. Gotta remove 17 screws.

Getting the sunroof open took a while. The motor worked but didn't have the torque to move the mechanisms. For a while, I turned the coupler between the motor and gearbox by hand. Slow! The winning approach was to use a power drill to turn the gearbox. I use a right-angle adapter (in pic) to gain space. I was concerned that the higher torque would strip the gears or cables but, working gently, it started moving quickly enough and opened. I'm planning to lube the rails and make it work normally. It's getting cool and rainy here.

The first pic show the underside of the roof with the headliner removed. I wondered if is was workable to cut off the support for the sunroof and weld up the hole. I'll look again but I'm thinking to cut out most of the roof and put in the sheetmetal from the roof of a non-sunroof car.

Second pic shows the donor. I cut it off a 928 when parting it a couple of years ago. It's waiting the the garage rafters, along with a tan liner. If shows the simple structure of the roof without sunroof: just a sheet of metal. The frame around the outside looks to be the same.
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File Type: jpg SunroofRoof.jpg (199.4 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg NoSunroofRoof.jpg (170.6 KB, 2 views)
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Unread 12-11-2018, 11:57 PM   #197
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Default Race seat

The race seat for the driver's side is installed. I've been looking for a shop to install a cage. They'd like to see it installed for planning and need it for the build.

the seat is a Pyrotect and is FIA-certified. That means no back brace is needed for PCA.

The pics show the adapter plates needed to mount the seat to the stock seat mounts. Those are too far apart to mount the seat directly to them. The first pic shows the plates drilled to mount to the rails and to the brackets for the seats. There are commercial adapters available but they seem pricey when I can fab these out of a $14 plate from Fleet Farm.

Pic 1: Plates
Pic 2: Plates installed
Pic 3: Race seat!
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File Type: jpg SeatApapters.jpg (202.4 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg SeatAdaptersInstalled.jpg (243.3 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg RaceSeat.jpg (126.1 KB, 0 views)
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Last edited by GlenL; 12-12-2018 at 08:37 AM..
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Unread 01-21-2019, 04:34 PM   #198
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Default WUR Rebuild

I sourced this WUR rebuild kit. It's for a non-vacuum WUR while the car has a double-vacuum system. Replacing the rubber diaphragm for the vacuum boost looked risky. What I wanted was the nickel-sized metal diaphragm and o-ring for it that actually regulate the pressure. Those plus the "8-shaped" o-ring. This was the cheapest way to get those although I didn't try just ordering those parts.

Went in fine and the car runs great. I tried measuring pressures but the Harbor Freight fuel pressure set was acting weird again. So I just hooked it up and ran it. Viola!
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File Type: jpg KjetKit.jpg (200.3 KB, 1 views)
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Unread 04-13-2019, 06:44 PM   #199
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Default Engine shocks and rack buffer

Getting back to the car as it's almost driving season. I didn't get a cage put in as that effort was overcome by events like paying a college bill. (Kids interfere with car projects!)

To move the project along, I've put in the engine shocks. These absorb engine vibration and really aren't needed on any sort of track car. Besides adding smoothness, I'm hoping they hold the engine a little more upright in corners. Last year, I found the the '85 Tubular manifolds touched the lower knuckle on the sterring shaft in hard-right corners. That's as exciting as it sounds. This happened on my other Euro S, too. Easy to put in.

We'll see if it works at the first track weekend of the season. That's the last weekend in April. The local PCA club does their event in Brainerd, MN. This isn't a smart combination and it has been snowed out in years past. We'll see.

In this PCA region, the car needs an inspection before going to the track. These are done at local P-car shops. It passed last fall just fine but a different tech looked this year. It failed. He cited too-loose front wheel bearings, a loose inner ball-joint and no battery tie down. OK! I had a number of tie rods with good inner balls to choose from. The bearings needed just a small bit of tightening.

While replacing the ball joint, I spotted an extra buffer on the steering rack. (Pictured.) I've seen these before and wonder what the heck it's for. I've often thought the turning radius was too large at lock. Now I see why. The aluminum ring inside of the rubber stop isn't found in the PET. I removed that from the right side. I'll pull back the boot and check the left, too. It should help in parking lots.
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File Type: jpg EngineShock.jpg (150.6 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg RackBuffer.jpg (176.1 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 04-17-2019, 01:33 PM   #200
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Default Battery hold-down

And here's a custom battery hold-down in Lemon Yellow. Take a piece of scrap 50mm plate, cut it, bend it and drill a hole. Then paint with a 25yo can of yellow paint. The spray can was so old the price sticker said $2.99.

The battery is not a stock size so a real hold-down wouldn't work. This battery is identical except for being about 2" shorter. It still has the lips at the bottom so it fits into the front hold-down. This is the battery I'm most often offered when a FLAPS says they've got a 928 battery in-stock. Not quite, but it works.

Now the car can go back to the shop for a final check.
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Unread 04-28-2019, 09:25 PM   #201
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Default GT grease caps

The car runs Panamera "10-spoke" wheels at the track. These are a good offset (59mm) in 8". The problem is that the hubs are a bit thinner than other Porsche wheels and the fingers on the center caps touch the front wheel grease caps. Previously, I ran the wheels with no center caps. I wanted to fix that and the answer is to replace the taller, "square" caps with these shorter, domed caps. Shopping around, they're available from $16 to $50. (HUH?) Got a pair of cheap one, direct from Germans, and put them on. I've got these on my other 928 and it worked fine there, too.

Put these on when putting on the track tires, and Hawk Blue pads, before a track weekend. Gratifyingly, the car ran great with no issues whatsoever! A change from last fall where the blow-by tubing was too small. That caused pressure to build in the crankcase and force oil up the dipstick tube. Messy! The outlet in the oil filler cap is about 8mm so the rest of the tubing should be at least that big. Old posts: 1" hose Catch can
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File Type: jpg GTScaps.jpg (211.1 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 05-15-2019, 09:18 PM   #202
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Default Exhaust manifold touching U-joint

The car ran well at the track in April. Not much run-time but mostly good results.

One thing that needed to be fixed was that, in hard right corners, the exhaust manifold would touch the steering U-joint. That's disconcerting. The steering wheel sticks a bit at that time. I improved this last fall by reversing the upper bolt so the head (shorter) faced the manifold rather than the end of the bolt (longer).

That made it a lot better but didn't fix the problem entirely. Looking at the problem today, the spot where it touches the manifold is clear. It's a dark spot on the tube in the picture.

I tried a bit of filing but then thought to move the U-joint down a bit. With the bolts loosened, a few taps from a hammer moved the joint down about 1/8". That should be enough.

I do wonder if this is a problem on the '85/'86 cars. The manifold and U-joint must be in about the same place as on my car.
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File Type: jpg UjointManifold.jpg (170.9 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 05-20-2019, 10:11 PM   #203
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Default A roll of quarters

It's common to find change under the seats. Today I found a whole roll of quarters! The newest was 2002 so likely to have been there a while.

That was tucked between the amplifier and the tunnel. Or "an amplifier" as I'm not sure it's stock. I've been looking at installing a radio and fixing the clock. Nice to have the time during track events.

Also moved the seat back a notch. It feels more comfortable and moves my legs away from the steering wheel. Easy fix: get a smaller wheel. Hmmm...
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