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Unread 09-17-2018, 01:58 AM   #181
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Default Engine running!

The engine fired up and runs! Just a few cranks to get fuel up to pressure. Oil pressure came right up, too. Not well as it's not tuned up, yet. Running far too rich, but that'll come.

Wrapping up the re-assembly. The air pump was removed and a 4L-210 belt fits snugly between the crank pulley and the fan.

To make the exhaust fit the '85 manifolds, I cut the right-side tube just in front of the muffler. The flanges line up well except are separated by ~4" straight fore/aft. Thinking poorly, cutting in the straight part ahead of the muffler makes the splice fairly easy but the new pipe position covers the bolts on the lower bellhousing. When I get it welded up, I'm going to have that repaired and make the extension splice near the manifold flange.

I'm using Valvoline VR1 50 weight for the break-in. I think it's the best oil that's easily available and not too pricey at $5/qt.

Otherwise, just bolting things in and up.
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Unread 09-22-2018, 12:40 AM   #182
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Default Clutch master bled

Got the clutch master bled today. It wasn't that hard but it was messy. I recalled someone saying that they had bled it "backwards" by forcing fluid up from the slave. That worked great.

The slave was OK once I put it back together. Not sure what happened but the rod was in the catch can and I'd shot the piston out. ("how'd that get there?!") The slave was new a couple of years back so I reassembled it and put it back in.

I've got a vacuum pump with a brake bleeding cup. The cup has a top with two hoses attached. It seals tightly. Normally, a hose goes from the top and to the vacuum pump while the other hose runs down into the cup. When drawing fluid in, it goes to the bottom and just air leaves from the top. I used that to bleed the brakes and it worked well.

To bleed the master, I filled the cup and attached the "inlet" hose to the hard line at the slave. I removed the slave to reduce the volume of fluid needed. Then I very gently pressurized the cup from an air compressor to force the fluid up into the hardline and up into the master. Some fluid sprayed around and the brake fluid runs out pretty quickly when the line was not plugged. Took a couple of tries to figure it out. Had to top up the reservoir along the way.

After forcing a full cupful (maybe 2/3 cup of fluid) up into the system, and no air, I quickly attached the slave and vacuum bled that. I was surprised at how solid the clutch pedal felt. Ran the car and the clutch opens great with no dragging.
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Unread 09-22-2018, 12:53 AM   #183
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Default Blow-by catch can

This catch can is for the blow-by coming out the top of the oil filler. The connection at the lower plenum for that hose is plugged. It's a 2 liter can with a handy sight gauge and a drain plug.

The can is mounted on the right side of the engine bay where the air filter for the air injection system. There are three 6mm bolt holes there but none point straight out. I used a piece of aluminum to fab a plate and that's bolted to the wall with the three holes and the can is bolted to the plate. It's really solid.

On my other car I had a lot of problems with blow-by carrying oil mist back into the intake. This leads to the well-known problem of 928 blowing a lot of oil smoke at high RPMs. The windage kit and tight rings should lower that but routing the blow-by out of the engine stops it all together. On my other 928, checking the catch volume is a good way to see if the oil ejection issue is controlled.

Something else on the engine is an oil control plate from 928 International. That goes under the oil filler to block oil being thrown off the crank from going into the stock separator can.
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Unread 09-22-2018, 01:10 AM   #184
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Default Engine bay all assembled!

Whoa! What's this? All the engine bay parts are in! Also looks like months of work and years of planning. A couple of things to note:

The air intake tubes are replaced with 3" high-temp brake duct. Someone, somewhere, said the stock tubes are good to 350hp. The engine should be near that. This is a bit noisier than the stock "venturi tubes." The trick to installing them is to remove the outer cord wrapping and the inner wire from the last inch or two of the tube on each end. Then the stretchy tube will slide over the duct and airbox tubes.

The stock cross-brace is replaced by a nice, shiny, stiff unit from 928 Motorsports. This was a special order with no engraving.

In the middle there's the adpator to take the outlet from the oil filler cap, about 1", down to a 3/8" barb for the hose to the catch can. It's not a real project without some parts from the hardware store's plumbing aisle.

The car's down on the ground. Looks like the ride height and alignment will need some adjustment before it'll be really roadworthy. Way too much camber for sure.

After that, it's on the road!
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Unread 09-24-2018, 08:37 PM   #185
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Default Suspension adjustment and alignment

This engine/WYAIT project is wrapping up!

Setting the suspension height now using my "locally made" gauge sticks. Measuring to the official spots on the bottom of the suspension is hard. With these I do it by feel. I'm setting the front to 155mm and the rear to 160mm.

Started off at 175mm and 145mm so it had a dashing rake and would have been scraping up a lot of speed-bumps and driveways. The last adjustment had the back set so the spring is slightly loose against the top with the shock extended while the front needed to compress a bit. If the rears were any stiffer it'd need those flat "helper springs" to keep the spring in place when the car gets lifted. I'll re-check it in a few days.

Otherwise, it's running pretty well. An odd oil leak near the tensioner that just might be the tensioner. Runs strong and idles well.

Gotta get the exhaust welded up and get to a dyno for some tuning runs. I've wanted to add a wide-band O2 sensor so I ca tune it myself to the A/F mixture. Still wouldn't add the power part to the tuning.
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Unread 09-26-2018, 09:00 PM   #186
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This thread delivers. Thanks for keeping the thread updated. I have enjoyed it
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Unread 09-27-2018, 01:36 PM   #187
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Looking good Glen. Nice project. Can't wait to hear how it drives.
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Unread 10-01-2018, 01:14 PM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenL View Post
... Setting the suspension height now using my "locally made" gauge sticks. Measuring to the official spots on the bottom of the suspension is hard. With these I do it by feel. I'm setting the front to 155mm and the rear to 160mm. ...
Sticks work but I always worried about whether I was measuring straight up and down or a little canted

I found the kind of tool below very useful. Tighten the wing nut and push the device under/across the measuring flat and it will "set" to the height. Pull it out and you can measure easily, with good access.

https://www.harborfreight.com/multi-square-1701.html
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Unread 10-08-2018, 11:59 PM   #189
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fogey1 View Post

I found the kind of tool below very useful. Tighten the wing nut and push the device under/across the measuring flat and it will "set" to the height. Pull it out and you can measure easily, with good access.

https://www.harborfreight.com/multi-square-1701.html
Usually there's a better way. That'd be an improvement over "a stick plus most of a finger." Thanks.
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Unread 10-09-2018, 12:17 AM   #190
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Default First dyno results

Getting some numbers!

The car got to the dyno twice last week. The first session was revealed that the WUR was acting up. I had swapped then between my 2 cars and this was the suspect one but the car had run well with it. While tuning it, the car would refuse to start when tweaking the mixture to get a lower A/F at WOT. It'd show a very low A/F ratio, sub-12:1, when idling.

In the evening I scavenged the good, or at least better, WUR from the other car and swapped it in. So back the next day to run again. This time the car ran better at idle but still not getting low A/F when running. The A/F meter at the shop seems a bit suspect, though. It'd show 14:1 or 15:1 while the car was so rich it stung my eyes.

The numbers were a bit disappointing but still good. The top HP was 287 at the wheels. This was a Mustang dyno which is less optimistic that the Dynojet that's most common. It was also running 10% ethanol gas so some easy HP to find there.

The torque graph is really nice with a broad plateau with a peak of 280 ft-lbs at 4200 RPM. I need to get the FI system sorted and A/F set right to make any conclusions on if the retarded cams are having a positive effect. Comparing a dyno chart from the other car, this one is not tailing off the torque as quickly near 6000rpm.
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Unread 10-09-2018, 12:37 AM   #191
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Default Track days!

Here's a great pic: getting the car out on the track. It was cool and drizzly at Brainerd Intl Raceway.

I thought the weekend went great even though the car had some issues.

The first problem was the brake pads, having been previously used, didn't mate up well with the rotors. I like Hawk Blues and moved a set in that'd been used a couple of weekends on car #1. They felt super spongy and when bleeding them I noticed that the fronts weren't contacting the rotors over most of the rotor. Nothing looked angled but there was enough to be a problem. A number of laps with excessive braking resolved this.

An exciting problem was something I had on the other car. The '85 manifolds are closer to the steering knuckle. In hard right turns the engine heaves over and the left manifold would contact the tip of the bolt that clamps the U-joint to the long shaft. Swapping the bolt end-to-end so the head faces the manifold in a corner solved the problem...mostly. It still feels like there's a bit of contact but it doesn't hold the wheel in place. That's not nice. I'll have to figure this out. Maybe new engine mounts are in order.

The biggest issue was an oil leak that was causing some smoke. The corner workers are not very agreeable and I got black flagged twice before figuring out the oil problem. The hoses for the "super cool" catch can were too small for the blow-by at high powers. This pressurized the engine and made oil squirt out especially from the top of the dipstick tube. It was quite a mystery how so much oil was coming out near there when the cam seal was dry.

I fixed that by removing the hose to the catch and just running a 1" hose over the side of the engine. That solves the oil leak but fed high-power blow-by and oil mist directly to the exhaust system. This changed what had been a frequent nuisance cloud into an occasional Jame Bond escape cloud. The straight at BIR is almost a full mile so plenty of time to build oil problems. If I kept the RPMs below 6K there wasn't a problem. If I held it at WOT a bit longer in each gear it'd make a cloud. Black flagged again! I decided that was enough for the weekend.

Still, a good weekend for me. Got the car out and shook down some problems. The car is running pretty strongly and it's handling well. No coolant usage. No odd noises. High oil pressure.

Reminds me... I changed the oil to Amsoil racing 15w50 before heading to the track. There was very little metal in the oil and very little in the oil filter. I've done a couple other 928 builds and found a lot more "sparkle" in the oil pan then. Maybe the Mahle rings shed less flakes than Goetze do.
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Unread 10-21-2018, 09:39 PM   #192
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Default Fixing the catch can

Here's the new hose for the catch can. It's a 1" heater hose and runs to the catch can. The fitting there goes down to about 3/8" but it's a lot better than previously.

In the prior system there was a 3/8" hose running from the oil filler cap to the catch can so the fitting had a 1/4" ID. At the can there was another hose stuffed into the fitting and running to the bottom of the can. That should have helped with the separation, but was about 1/16" so tiny for the flow. This made the crankcase pressurize and blow oil out the dipstick and elsewhere.

The new system seems to be working. It's not possible to duplicate track conditions on the highway and especially in a metropolitan area. Still, running it to the red-line doesn't produce the obvious oil stains from it squirting out the dipstick and there's now dripping.

To help get the oil out of the blow-by, there's part of a stainless steel scrubbing pad stuck into the catch can end of the big hose. It's a good deal more coarse than steel wool and is like a bundle of machining scrap.

I've got another separator on order and may put that in plus, maybe, a small catch can with breather. Just need to see how to mount it.
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Unread 10-21-2018, 09:55 PM   #193
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Default Driver's seat removed

Moving along to the next phase of the project, I've succeeded in removing the driver's seat. This took hours as the seat is powered and the fore/aft and height motors were dead. The back angle motor did work.

How dead? Soaked in water dead. The floor seemed to have been really wet at times and some of the coins I've found were very corroded. (So far, only US money in the gray-market car.) Once I got the seat out the extent of the water could be seen by the water-line staining on the motors and mechanisms. The parts with grease on them looked like algea had grown on them. A mess.

Getting the seat out was a bear. There is a release lever to allow it to move forwards and backwards. Making this work wasn't obvious, although I eventually got it. Along the way I tried directly connecting the battery to the motors which did nothing.

The release lever is shown in the manual with an arrow pointing toward the middle...or does it just point to the lever? I spent hours trying to make it work or figure out how to lever the mechanism. Sprayed it with penetrating oil for good measure. Somewhere along the way the mechanism came loose and I could see the lever was supposed to pull a disk towards the middle and separate that from a sprag on a big gear. Simple? The clevis that is suppose to do the pulling had gotten bent and it was tricky to get any action. Hours later, I had gotten the seat run to both ends to allow the four mounting bolts out.

I didn't want to employ the Sawzall too early on this as I still want to drive it. A real pain but it's out. And, for a more fun project, I've opened and fixed the motors and freed and greased all the mechanisms. Fixed the release clevis, too. Not quite done but when it goes back I should have a six-way powered seat.

At the least, the release lever will work when it's time for the race seat.
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Unread 10-28-2018, 02:02 PM   #194
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Default Front fender liners

These have been on for a while but the mod wasn't covered at the time:

Later front fender liners on early cars.

The early cars don't have fender liners that protect the underside of the fender. They have vertical covers at the front and back of the wheelwell but no protection across the top. At the track, small stones get picked up by the sticky tires, at speed, and pelt the underside of the fender. This leads to bumps and cracked paint from the underside.

I've put later fender liners on both my cars. Not sure how "later" they were but it's once piece that wraps the wheelwell from the front, across the top and then down the back. Mounting them isn't a problem but some work has to be done.

The full liners have six mounting holes: two at the front corners, two at the back corners and two at the top on the inside. The older cars match up with the two at the top and the outside of the back corners. The front needs something fabbed or just bolt it to the existing liner there. I've done both and used four points to mount them. I think it's OK and then haven't fallen out, yet.

Anyways... The later fender liners fit and work great to protect the underside of the aluminum fenders. It's clear why they changed that design.
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Unread 11-04-2018, 10:33 PM   #195
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Default Removeing interior

Here's a simple pic showing the rear seats removed. I'm working through removing the interior parts that will be in the way of installing the roll cage. Some might just be too close to the welding. I'm planning to put a lot of it back. The weight isn't a lot and I expect to need to add weight to make the 3401 lbs that PCA spec's for the car.

I'm pulling the rear interior panels and carpets, too.
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