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Unread 01-21-2010, 03:48 PM   #1
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Default '86 Engine

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsc...item27aea75150

Although this is an auction in progress I just thought I'd call attention to the fact that there is a compression tested engine for sale currently less than $1000. SIX large clear photos!!

Includes everthing but intake and MM. Look how clean it is!!! (Pssssst, he probably had it steam cleaned although I see some gunk below the oil filler neck) The ad does say "No returns" and then it says 10 day return policy. Buyer beware. No affiliation.
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Unread 01-21-2010, 03:52 PM   #2
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If it was an Euro I'd buy it.
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Unread 01-21-2010, 05:31 PM   #3
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nice.
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Unread 01-21-2010, 05:56 PM   #4
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It's a quality listing that's for sure... but even better is that steam clean job. What equipment would they have used for that?
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Unread 01-21-2010, 09:59 PM   #5
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that looks like plop and play
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Unread 01-21-2010, 10:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 928WorldWide View Post
It's a quality listing that's for sure... but even better is that steam clean job. What equipment would they have used for that?
I'm going to guess that they used a good steam cleaner, and a decent degreaser and high-pressure hose first if needed. Plus the pictures are large and clear, with good lighting so that it's easy to see the visual condition, what's there and not there, all before bidding. Realistic pricing so the seller doesn't need to kill the auction if bids aren't good enough. Managing customer expectations from the first posting...

----

Without knowing what the legal/environmental issues are where your place is in Pa, I suggest that you look into a serious vapor degreaser for cleaning all but the largest parts. If that's not allowed, a solvent-less parts washer would be the next option. All but electronic parts can be run through the parts washer, which can look a lot like a very large industrial dishwasher.

A pressure washer is handy for a lot of things but for commercial use you'll need to have a designated cleaning area/mat, with a grease trap and a way to legally dispose of the slime. Detergent makes most grease traps ineffective since it emulsifies the stuff you are trying to separate and trap. Permits are usually required for such things, so check with your city's planning/zoning/engineering dept's for exactly what you need to do where you are. Fines can get really serious in a hurry, especially if your runoff gets into a storm drain or public waterway for instance.

Electronic modules suffer with the caustic degreasers/detergents, but generally don't get that dirty while in the car. I buy ZEP glass cleaner concentrate at Home Depot, and mix it in a spray bottle at about 1:5 with water, but without any ammonia, to use for general parts cleaning. It leaves the labels intact on electronic modules and doesn't attack the connectors.


HTH!
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Unread 01-24-2010, 02:00 AM   #7
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I thought it was a good deal when I saw it the other day as well.
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Unread 01-24-2010, 09:02 AM   #8
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The pictures are nice, but did I miss where he says how many miles were on that engine?
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Unread 01-24-2010, 10:54 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicole View Post
The pictures are nice, but did I miss where he says how many miles were on that engine?
I'd rather see it dirty with mileage to confirm its condition. In this case cleaning it is potentially hiding its faults.
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Unread 01-24-2010, 02:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicole View Post
The pictures are nice, but did I miss where he says how many miles were on that engine?
why would anyone trust the mileage on a 928 engine for sale?
most of them are not showing true mileage and have been rolled back.
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Unread 01-25-2010, 11:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by namasgt View Post
why would anyone trust the mileage on a 928 engine for sale?
most of them are not showing true mileage and have been rolled back.
Now you are being cynical and painting them all with the same brush; but after your experience

OTH, this is a trust issue between a buyer and a seller.

Since this thread was intended as instructional, I will leave it there and close this if it goes astray.
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Unread 01-25-2010, 11:49 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FB111 View Post
I'd rather see it dirty with mileage to confirm its condition. In this case cleaning it is potentially hiding its faults.
I would have to agree, just my own opinion though. Easier to tell if a head gasket is leaking or other signs of bad seals. I'd be cleaning the engine before installation anyway.

Then again, I'd be replacing most all of the seals before that too.
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Unread 01-25-2010, 12:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backslider View Post
True for some, not so for others. Not everyone has the desire or proper resources to clean a greasy lump. If you're a business, that's one thing, if you're a just a guy with a broken 928, it's quite different. Most would probably like something shiny for plug&play. Not all grease and coolant residue is because a motor has issues. A leaking power steering line from the reservoir can coat the left side of the motor, top of alternator and cooling hose and everything else on that side and front, run along oil pan lip edge and get on top of cross member. If enough grit and dirt accumulates and bakes on it, it's hard to tell what kind of fluid it was or where it originated. Same if the small heater hose in the back leaks for a while. All sorts of reasons why juices puddle in the valley. I also replace seals and odd bits before installing a motor, but would rather start with something already clean.
I agree with you 100%. I was only speaking from what I'd do. And now that I give it a bit more thought, if I was just going to replace a few seals and wanted a quick swap. I'd prob want it clean also.
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Unread 01-25-2010, 12:21 PM   #14
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For me I have to see the cylinder walls when I buy a 928 engine, couple of light scratches on the bores are fine (by couple I mean no more than 2 or 3), The deep scratches ruins it for me.
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Unread 01-25-2010, 04:02 PM   #15
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For that you use a boroscope. I did it to check-out the Rip Vanwinkler engine before I started it.
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