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Unread 10-20-2014, 10:44 PM   #1
Imo000
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Default Dragged home one of these engine repair project #2

Engine has 346000Km. Last time at the drag strip id developed a slightly lower oil pressure condition (~1bar less than before). Rennlist has some details on it but since you must be a paying member to post pictures, I'll start a fresh thread here instead.

Couple weeks ago decided to change the oil thinking maybe that will bring the pressure up to where it used to be. The gauge I used for this was the one in the gauge cluster. Upon pulling the filter, it was obvious something is coming apart. The filter was pull of metal. Most stuck to a magnet so initially though maybe it's a lifter of a camshaft. I've put a new filter in it and filled it up with regular 10W30 just so I can drive it in from the driveway into the garage. A few days later I jacked the back up and drained the oil and coolant, to get ready to pull the engine. I let the oil drain for a few days and tonight pulled the sump pan just to see what's in there. Things don't look too good, there is copper in there so the crank or connecting rod bearing(s) have starved of oil and is/are coming apart. The case will have to come apart for this. That's it for today, I'll post more as I progress further into the project. Here are some pictures from the project.
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Unread 10-21-2014, 02:11 PM   #2
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Imre, that's too bad, but I'm glad it wasn't catastrophic.

I'm staying tuned. This is a great project.
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Unread 10-21-2014, 03:26 PM   #3
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yeah, this looks like a great project. Keep us updated!
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Unread 10-23-2014, 10:34 PM   #4
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It's out.......again! Came out faster than the first time. Around 6 hoirs, while taking it easy. I bet the shops that do this all the time can get them out in under 3 hours. Before I lowered the engine, measured the engine's height (~"26), added "2 for the ATV jack and another inch for the patio stone with the rubber pad. Had to stack 3 patio stoned to reach the engine and then put jack stands under the exhaust manifold and removed 2 of the patio stones. After this the engine cleared the frame with half inch to spare. The car goes out of the garage tomorrow and will sit outside while I tear the engine down and decided what to do.
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Unread 10-24-2014, 10:20 PM   #5
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Remember that if you are going to put the wheels back on and roll the car you should put the cross brace back on first to stabilize things. You don't want the weight of the car on the rear suspension with tying the bottom of the wheel carriers together with the cross brace.
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Unread 10-25-2014, 10:43 AM   #6
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No worries, I put the main cross brace back and tightenned the bolts. Also put the ither braces but only finger tight and re installed the bumper. This way they don't take up space in the garage and all the parts are on or in the front trunk of the car. Today it will be rolled out of the garage.
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Unread 11-03-2014, 09:45 PM   #7
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Split the engine and transmission tonight. The one bolt that needs an allen key to remove was a tough one to get going. Almost didn't break loose. Had to hammer it beat the socket into it and then finally cracked loose. It was starting to strip and this was the last attempt before drilling the head off. I'm really grad it came out. Since these bolts were covered in antisieze and were only installed 2 years ago, once cracked loose, came out really easy. The clutch looks OK but the slrings in the dual mass flywheel feel looser than they should. I'll take it to a specialist to look at it and if the old one is in better shape and can be re aurfaced, I'll go with that option. Next is to lift the engine up enough with the ATV jack to mount it on the engine stand. Then the real tear down can start.
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Unread 11-06-2014, 09:10 PM   #8
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Looks like that was a torx and not allen wrench.
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Unread 11-06-2014, 09:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69gaugeman View Post
Looks like that was a torx and not allen wrench.
My thoughts exactly.
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Unread 11-06-2014, 10:36 PM   #10
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I think that's because I hammered it in offseted to try for the last time but I'll have a closer look. I'm retty sure it wasn't a torx but maybe it was. I'll check next time I'm in the garage.

The intermediate shaft bearing flange is leaking a bit. It is the original one with the original O ring and somenRTV. The rear main seal is still dry.

Pulled the passanger side valve cover and all looks normal. No sign of anything failing there. The frequent oil changes since I had it seems to start cleaning off some of the varnish.
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Unread 11-07-2014, 09:06 PM   #11
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Got the driver side valve cover off tonight. All looks normal at first glance. Nothing stands out. Will be digging into it further to see how things look. I think next will be to pull the cams and then pull the intermediate shaft bearing flange and have a peek at the bearing seals
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Unread 11-08-2014, 02:14 PM   #12
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That bolt is definitely Torx, I had to buy a couple of sets of Torx sockets too when I needed to remove the seats, the seat mounting bolts were Torx, had not seen a bolt with Torx head until starting to work on the 996.

Like the bolt storage device too, I did the same when changing the water pump last summer to keep track the different lengths.
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Unread 11-08-2014, 05:57 PM   #13
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Torx is 6-point. That's probably an XZN (triple-square).
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Unread 11-09-2014, 08:13 PM   #14
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Probably a tripple square. The section of my garage where I did this work has lots of shadows. The main garage lights are being blocked by the garage door openers. I'm just glad it came out.
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Unread 11-13-2014, 11:42 PM   #15
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Nothing exciting yet but the intake is off.
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