08-15-2011, 08:36 PM | #46 |
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LOL i just bought one of those kits for my xterra. I honestly dont want to know the results. maybe its just a bad thermostat
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2015 Acura RDX, 51,000 1987 Porsche 951 w/86 engine. +K26/8 Formally known as the "Boost Monster" Former 2012 Subaru Impreza 2.0 5 speed 77800 miles 2001 Nissan Xterra SE, 236,000 miles 1994 Ford Explorer XLT, 262,000 |
08-15-2011, 09:52 PM | #47 |
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08-16-2011, 12:26 AM | #48 |
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IT'S BLUE!!!!! HEADGASKET IS GOOD!!!!!
Thanks everyone for the help and advice. Now to fix some wiring, install the SMT-6 and LC-1, tune, remount the seats, and finally get this thing on the track. |
The Following User Says Thank You to odb812 For Your Post: | carlege (08-16-2011) |
08-16-2011, 06:37 PM | #49 |
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Will I be okay without the AOS heatshield with a wrapped downpipe? I was having trouble fitting the 3" downpipe with the heatshield in place and was under the impression that I would be taking everything apart again to do the headgasket, so I left it off. Now I don't really feel like taking the turbo out just to reinstall this heatshield.
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08-17-2011, 10:23 AM | #50 | |
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Quote:
While I dont recommend running without that heatshield in place, I am sure others will give varied reports. I WILL be running a heat shiled there, as the risk of the AOS melting, outweighs the pain of installing the heatshield there... YMMV |
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08-17-2011, 04:04 PM | #51 |
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I've got some heat reflective crap around the aos so I can move the car around and drive it a little to diagnose any issues. There are too many little things I want to fix, so I guess I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and pull the turbo again. I'm going to see if I can reclock the turbo to see if I can get a little more room for the heatshield without throwing off the connection at the crossover.
I drove the car to work today and it was pretty solid. |
08-22-2011, 02:53 AM | #52 |
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I started pulling some stuff off the car to get the turbo out this afternoon. I noticed some oil in the intercooler pipe from the compressor discharge to the intercooler. From what I read this is fairly normal, but my turbo only has 100 mi or so on it. I also notice black liquid coming out of the tailpipe when I start the car up, but this looks like condensation picking up soot inside the exhaust. I don't notice this as much since I put the catalytic converter in. Do I need to just stop worrying and work on the damn car?
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08-22-2011, 11:09 AM | #53 |
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I've been gone here for a while.... Great news on the HG. I've wondered how many guys have torn into them without even knowing if the gasket was bad.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Indy951 For Your Post: | odb812 (08-22-2011) |
08-30-2011, 09:11 PM | #54 |
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Update:
I drove the car to work a couple of weeks ago and it ran great. I had the boost set to 10 to be safe and took it pretty easy. I sat in traffic for a couple of hours on my way home and when it cleared up I started having trouble shifting into 2nd and 4th. I started a thread on the other site about it. What had happened is the shift lever had slightly bent below the pin which caused the pin to sit at an angle the rod didn't like. This caused the rod to bind against the pin when the lever was moved front to back. I heated, wd40ed, pried, and worked it back and forth until it started to move freely. I didn't want to take it all the way out in fear that I may not be able to get it back in. Now the car shifts just fine, so this issue is getting moved to the backlog. While I had it in the garage I also moved the gauges up to where the radio was, reinstalled the cubby below and finally put my CPR splitter on. Next on the list is taking the turbo back out, fitting the AOS heatshield back on, and replumbing the coolant outlet from the turbo with the same type of fittings Pauly used. I've been driving the car to work this week and have gradually increased the boost pressure to 15 psi. This car is ridiculously fast. I can't wait to get it tuned and out on the track. Here's a pic of it next to my RSX in the garage at work. |
The Following User Says Thank You to odb812 For Your Post: | ramius665 (09-01-2011) |
09-05-2011, 05:42 PM | #56 |
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So the to-do list is looking like this:
-rewiring MAF -install SMT-6 & LC1 -take turbo out to reinstall AOS heatshield & new turbo water fittings -tune I've got a few questions about rewiring the MAF. What pins on the DME plug are for the AFM? I need 18 gauge TXL wire, right? Should I keep the MAF grounded at the closest ground point, or wire the ground from the DME? Right now I am using the diagnostic port to supply the +12V to the MAF, is there a better place near the DME I can use? |
09-06-2011, 04:50 AM | #57 |
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looking good!
to answer a few questions, it would be easer to use the cycling valve 12v to the maf, just uses a simple spade connector. ground it anywhere you want id say, as long as good contact with the ground itself
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- Pauly, 86 952 Garrett GTX3076R, CEP head, CEP/JME cam, TiAL 38mm, M-Tune, FMIC, eBoost 2, KWv3 Build thread: Click here |
The Following User Says Thank You to Paulyy For Your Post: | odb812 (09-06-2011) |
09-06-2011, 09:54 AM | #58 |
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In theory all grounds are the same (and connected).. try the one closest to the MAF, and see if you have any issues. OH, and TXL isnt a required type.. but can't hurt to try to bring some part of the car into the current century! (let me know if you need some.. I have a bit of it!)
Power from the cycling valve is a good one.. drive it like you stole it! |
The Following User Says Thank You to John Koa Wood For Your Post: | odb812 (09-06-2011) |
09-06-2011, 03:49 PM | #59 |
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What pins on the big harness connector at the DME are for the AFM? I want to just replace the whole harness back to the DME rather than soldering a connection in the engine compartment that's going to get wiggled around. TIA
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09-08-2011, 12:27 PM | #60 | |
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I will check the diagrams later this evening.. |
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