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Unread 03-25-2021, 07:23 PM   #226
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Default Transmission swap

To get ready for the track season, I'm swapping the "better" g28.11 transmission for the "inferior" g28.05. That'll give a 2.75 final drive in place of a 2.2.

I looked into replacing the ring-and-pinion on the g28.11 and tried to order the set. 928 International had one but by the time I pulled the trigger it was gone. Maybe for the best. Replacing that is touchy work and there's the risk I'll just mess it up. I've got 4 (four!) g28.05 trannies so messing one or two up trying to rebuild one seems smarter. Plus, if that works, I'll have the g28.11 for a backup or sale.

So... The Plan was to pick a candidate and rebuild it. Checking them out, they all shifted more-or-less well and all went into 5th gear. That had been the problem: no fifth gear. This happened twice at the track after heating it up good. The Plan includes a gear oil cooler for the transmission.

The best shifting transmission went in and...

Didn't work! It wouldn't go into fifth all the way and the dog teeth just buzzed. I looked at the shift coupler by the tranny and the shifter lever mechanism to no result. I must not have put enough force on it to see the gear wasn't engaged. It looked to be snapping in right, too. "Good that."

The tranny is now coming back out. I'm looking at pulling the drive shaft on the input and seeing if there's a problem or, maybe, a bent fork. The first track day is April 22nd so there's time to work this out.
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Unread 03-25-2021, 07:25 PM   #227
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Default Bent lower arm

With the rear suspension out, I spotted that the right-rear lower arm was bent. Not a lot but pretty clearly. The classic failure is that tow truck drivers strap it down by the arm and bend it. One was one the shelf and a fairly easy swap in.
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Unread 03-25-2021, 07:40 PM   #228
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Default Transmission pull tips

I've done this a half dozen times and am getting pretty good at it. Maybe three hours out and three back in. Everything comes loose now so no hours spent on any frozen, 40 year corroded bolts.

The first trick is to strap the transmission up to the sway bar. A lightweight tie-down strap works well. A few things to do:

Remove the whole rear suspension as a unit.

The rear brakes come off the knuckles and get hung from convenient eyelets provided nearby on the body. Don't disconnect the hydraulics.

The parking brake cable is freed at the lever and pulled out. That remains attached to cradle and the drum brakes.

Mark the position of the toe adjusters. Those can be tough to get off. The nut requires a box-end wrench. An extra-long wrench helps to get the torque. BTW - 19mm is almost exactly 3/4"".

Mark where the cradle is mounted to the body. It may just go back to the right spot but some guidance helps.

Remember to remove the speed sensor and the reverse gear switch. And the clips that hold the wiring to the tranny.

Remove the half-shafts just at the transmission. These are then wired to the cradle to control them. I put plastic bags around the CV joint and tie those up with the wire. That keeps the grease from getting all over and, worse, the joint flopping around and dumping the balls.

After all that, the cradle is held by six bolts plus six nuts on the shock tops. And the 2 bolts to the tranny mounts.

And, remember, there are six bolts holding the transmission to the torque tube. 2 are sort of hidden up top.
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File Type: jpg TrannyStrap.jpg (236.8 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg TrannyCradle.jpg (248.9 KB, 2 views)
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Last edited by GlenL; 03-26-2021 at 02:41 PM.
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Unread 03-28-2021, 12:44 PM   #229
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Once the top of the transmission was open, I could see that the problem was not with going into gear. The shifter sleeve was going completely over the dog teeth for fifth gear. The problem was that the shifter sleeve was worn on and slipping on the guide sleeve side. That is, the side of the sleeve that engages the dog teeth of fourth gear when in fourth.

It all looked and worked fine when not loaded. With the output stubs jammed, and in fifth gear, turning the input shaft would make the sleeves slip past each other. "Chunk-chunk-chunk-chunk" At operating speed it sounds like a zipping.

I checked tranny #2 in the same way and it seems OK. I hope that works. Rebuilding a transmission seems in the future.
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Unread 05-26-2021, 01:57 AM   #230
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Default Paint the car!

The car is basically sorted and the cage and safety equipment is installed. I did a shake-down weekend at the track. No real surprises mechanically. That race suit sure is warm, though, and the HANS means I can't turn to see blind spots.

Now it's time to make it look good.

The existing paint is terrible. Dusky and bumpy. And the top coat has pulled off with some of the vinyl numbers. Yeah, it's gotta get fixed. I plan to paint it the stock schwarz metalic. I found some unsullied paint under the mirrors and that'll be very cool!

So here's a pic with the front end removed and bodywork in-progress. I'm doing a fairly complete disassembly. Not taking out windows but the bumper covers, mirrors, headlights and window trim is off.
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Unread 05-26-2021, 02:04 AM   #231
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The car was delivered in Germany and federalized when brought to the US. That meant having trailer lights screwed onto the corners and braces put into the doors. And they took the H4 headlights, too.

I'm filling the holes for the corner lights. My other 928 is a federalized Euro and that got welded inserts for the 4 corners. The inserts were not flush with the sheetmetal but the plates were welded in. The aluminum welding went poorly on the that car so I'm pop-riveting in some backing plates on this one.

To make it work more nicely, the holes get dimpled. There's a tool that has two small steel disks where one has a small cone and one has a mating hole. A nail runs between then and the pop-rivet tool clamps them down. Even with the dimple, some of the rivet head remains proud of the surface. I did some trials and after the bulging head is ground off the rivet still holds. The aluminum panels get all-aluminum rivets to avoid corrosion issues.
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Unread 05-26-2021, 02:11 AM   #232
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Those run strips had to go! Might as well. Almost easier to remove them than to sand and patch them. The cars look so much better without them and the strips interfere with decals.

These are getting some backing plates, too.
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Unread 06-07-2021, 08:58 PM   #233
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Default Car sanded

The car body is all sanded down. Still need to go up grades to get a smooth surface but the top few layers are ripped off.

The car has been painted 2, 3 or 4 times depending on the body part. The car had a dinger of the right-front fended, a heavier hit on the driver's door and left-rear side, and a then hard hit on the rear.

The last painter was terrible. The topcoat pealed off with some decals and the paint and primer was pooled up on the top.

The rear has an '84 or later bumper and a US bumper cover. That was originally blue. The last painter just went over the beading and the "PORSCHE" decals stuck into the embossed logo on the back. Nasty. So... I got out two other rear cover I've got and picked a nicer one. Mainly for thinner paint (green over original gold) and no decals. It's also got small holes for the bumperettes which are not going back on.

Most of the bodywork is "done" but still imperfect or, at least, below reasonable standards. I'm doing guide coats to get the sanding and filler juuuust right.

The patch for the sunroof is taking a lot of time. The welder put in a section of non-sunroof roof into the sunroof hole. If I had it to do over again, I'd have the entire roof skin replaced. Drill out the spot welds and move the whole "1-piece" roof onto the car. The patch has a different arc and there was a lot of distortion from the heating. Like a 2/3 quart of Bondo applied.

The corner markers and rub strip holes look pretty good along with other holes and accident damage. It's going to look pretty good. I hope!
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Unread 06-16-2021, 01:22 PM   #234
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Default Sanded bumper cover

Here's a pic that shows progress and challenges.

The car had a minor accident on the right-front corner so that got an extra layer of paint. The car looks to have had a decent repaint and then a terrible repaint plus repairs for a rear hit, a left-side hit (maybe the same time?) and a front-right minor hit. Some body-damaging scrapes on the right side. A few "got dropped on" dents on the aluminum fenders. It was a mess.

Sanding the flexible bumper covers reveals all the layers at one time. Visitors have said I should just clearcoat the car and drive it like this. It'd be cool and distinctive but I'm going to go with stock metalic black. Turns out that Sherwin-Williams automotive paint shops can mix it up from the paint code. Nice!
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Unread 06-16-2021, 02:28 PM   #235
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What's the plan on painting the urethane bumper covers? Installed, removed? Taking it down to the original primer? Any repairs needed?
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Unread 06-16-2021, 05:08 PM   #236
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The bumper covers are off the car. Easier to sand and paint that way. The beading was previously painted and that's removed. (Reminds me to order the new beading.) I wanted to replace that as well.

The paint is itself urethane and is flexible as-is. The manufacturer doesn't offer a flex additive for it. So a coat of urethane primer, sand it, and then two top coats.

There's just a little damage and suspect spots. I'm not really doing anything for it. A few spots got some primer for minor leveling. I did push spot putty into the two small holes for the license plate on the front. I hope that sticks. I was thinking "hot glue?" but don't want to mess it up.

One reason for sanding was to take off some layers and reduce the chance of cracking. There was already some of that and those spots got taken down to the bottom. The polyurethane (I think that's what it is) needs adhesion promoter when bare. I'm leery of getting that right so only went to the plastic when necessary...or by accident.
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Unread 07-03-2021, 08:54 AM   #237
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Default Paint done and back to the track

Well, well... That paint job was not a lot of fun. I thought it might take 60 hours of work and now I'm thinking it was closer to 200. Lots of additional time in preparation and a re-paint, and then in touch-up and buffing/polishing. The reassembly also took a lot more time than planned. Still, made it to the track for a 1-day DE event as a shake-down before the first club race in three weeks.

The car looks pretty good. The corner markers and rub strips are gone! The removed sunroof looks good, too.
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Unread 07-16-2021, 08:01 AM   #238
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yes it does look good. Nice work. Post more pictures of it please!
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Unread 07-27-2021, 01:36 AM   #239
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Default Race Car

Back from a weekend of racing the 928! It's not covered with livery or stickers. On the fenders are the requisite PCA Club Racing logos.

The car passed inspection with a couple of minor changes. It needed padding on the roll cage and better marking for the kill switch lanyard. That was handled at the track.

The weekend was a bit uneven. I pulled three DNF in three races. Learning a few things and #1 is plan carefully and avoid prepping the car in a rush.

Still... The car got its log book and I had 10 sessions of races and practicing racing. The car ran pretty well with no major breakdowns. Time to shift focus from safety prep, and painting it, back to performance mods. Lower it a bit? Headers? Dyno tune?

The next race is at Road America over Labor Day weekend. Can't wait!
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Unread 07-29-2021, 11:51 PM   #240
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Default Racing video

Better than a picture in the paddock, here's a clip of some racing. The pack has spread out at this time.

https://youtu.be/tiMMVIkRCn8
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