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Unread 08-06-2009, 02:25 AM   #1
helmet993
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Default Removing clutch interlock

How can I bypass the need to push in the clutch to start my 993? It is a 97...any pics or step by step instructions?

And..seems I'm the only one starting topics, sorry
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Unread 08-07-2009, 03:31 PM   #2
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sorry for starting topics? Bah! Keep it up... this place needs more 993 traffic

So, I have been meaning to do this. Thank you for giving me a reason to get it done.
On the 993 turbos, a cold start can be a problem with the heavier pressure plate. Puts pressure on the crankshaft thrust bearing and can cause premature wear. Not good!
Anyhow, I just did mine. Took 15 minutes including taking these pics.

Some remove the switch and connect the wires to bypass it. I took a short cut and just used a small wire tie to strap the lever on the microswitch in the closed position. (see pic)

Hope this helps!

1. remove floor mat and carpet piece that sits around pedals
2. remove 3 screws at base of wood panel (see red, first pic)
3. pull gas pedal up (fairly hard) to pop pedal from the ball/socket joint
4. remove wood panel
5. locate microswitch (see red, second pic)
6. strap small wite tie around it, cut off excess from tie (see red, third pic)
7. reassemble. most notable part of reassembly is in popping the gas pedal back onto the strut ball. I use a pair of channel lock pliers to grip the strut and push the pedal on. You have to push pretty hard and it will go in with a definite "click"
Attached Images
File Type: jpg clutch sw bypass 005.JPG (91.0 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg clutch sw bypass 001.JPG (104.7 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg clutch sw bypass 003.JPG (115.0 KB, 23 views)
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Unread 08-09-2009, 02:55 PM   #3
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Mark, thanks for posting this. I may end up doing this soon. I'm also thinking of replacing the master cylinder - still getting some clicking from the clutch pedal (slave cylinder is only a couple years old).
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Unread 08-11-2009, 11:10 AM   #4
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Awesome, thank you Mark. Took me about 30 minutes to do this and double check everything under there
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Unread 08-11-2009, 12:59 PM   #5
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Does this have any effect on the drive block system?

Great post BTW. Keep um coming.
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Unread 08-11-2009, 04:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Beers View Post
Does this have any effect on the drive block system?

Great post BTW. Keep um coming.
Thanks!
No, this is completely independant of the drive block. It is a simple switch.
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Unread 08-18-2009, 06:52 PM   #7
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I wanted to note that when I did this I also adjusted my pedal height for gas/brake.

My zip tie didn't want to be as flexible as Mark's, but I was able to slip it through the tiny part of the through hole that the switch mounts to (Mark's zip tie is wrapped around, mine goes through).

And lastly, good opportunity to run a vacuum in there to clean up.
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Unread 09-05-2009, 11:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helmet993 View Post
How can I bypass the need to push in the clutch to start my 993?
What is gained by doing this? (Serious question)

Thanks,
Terry
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Unread 09-07-2009, 09:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMc993 View Post
What is gained by doing this? (Serious question)

Thanks,
Terry
There is some debate that removing the interlock is better for your engine, something about the pressure plate putting stress on the main bearings on a cold start.

Requires some serious dedication to always check that your 993 is not in gear...
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Unread 09-08-2009, 11:34 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMc993 View Post
What is gained by doing this? (Serious question)

Thanks,
Terry
Quote:
Originally Posted by helmet993 View Post
There is some debate that removing the interlock is better for your engine, something about the pressure plate putting stress on the main bearings on a cold start.

Requires some serious dedication to always check that your 993 is not in gear...
Yes, but this is on the turbo cars due to the higher pressure plate clamping force. That force is transferred to the rear thrust bearing on the crankshaft and on cold start can cause premature wear.

On the NA cars it should not be an issue.

Personally, I'd rather not have to press the clutch in to start any car. Just increases wear on the T/O bearing and PP. Just feels wrong when I have to do it..
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Unread 09-08-2009, 12:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkD View Post
Yes, but this is on the turbo cars due to the higher pressure plate clamping force. That force is transferred to the rear thrust bearing on the crankshaft and on cold start can cause premature wear.

On the NA cars it should not be an issue.

Personally, I'd rather not have to press the clutch in to start any car. Just increases wear on the T/O bearing and PP. Just feels wrong when I have to do it..
Guess this would hold true for my supercharged engine as well. It's on my list of things to get done.
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Unread 09-08-2009, 12:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Beers View Post
Guess this would hold true for my supercharged engine as well. It's on my list of things to get done.
I'd suspect the clutch installed was not the stock PP so, yes... would be a good idea IMO
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Unread 09-08-2009, 01:57 PM   #13
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I have a LWF, RS clutch and turbo pressure plate...hence my need to bypass the interlock.
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Unread 10-12-2009, 11:45 AM   #14
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Many thanks for the excellent pics, MarkD! Just finished this job. IMHO,the best way to do this is to trace the leads from the microswitch, down to the floorboard. You'll find a red, two conductor connector wrapped up in foam padding. Remove the padding, disconnect and make a U-shaped jumper from a short (about 2-3 inches) length of 14 ga. solid wire (scrap ROMEX house wiring). Strip about 1/2" of insulation from each end and stick into the female contacts (the side going away from the microswitch). You can use some electrical tape to secure both sides from flopping around down there or just tuck under the carpet. Much easier than tying the arm of the microswitch down and, if the microswitch should fail internally in the open position, you'll never start the car until you figure out the switch is the culprit! BTW, you don't need to disconnect the accelerator pedal to get the plywood floorboard loose. A thin Philips head screwdriver will reach round the pedal.
p.s: I'd like to add a footnote (pun intended) to this thread. If you've been having a problem starting your IMMOBILIZER-equipped 993, the culprit may be this microswitch. Say you press the key fob the requisite number of times, turn the key and wait for the IMMOBILIZER light in the clock to go out, then turn the key more to engage the starter but nothing happens. I suggest that the clutch microswitch may be the problem. It could be out of adjustment or intermittent. Just do away with it.

Last edited by NC TRACKRAT; 12-10-2009 at 11:48 AM. Reason: added clarification
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