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Old 11-18-2016, 07:56 PM   #136
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The '79 had the EGR system. That's all gone now but I had to fix the holes. Here's my attempt on the valve. It's just two pieces of 3/16" steel with an old exhaust gasket underneath. The right gasket would be better but this is temporary. I bent the upper plate a bit to press in the middle. It may leak a bit but I'm not concerned.

What may be a problem is the tube port on the inside. I think that's for exhaust sampling or something like that. It was broken off and the fitting broke, too. So, I drilled out the hole and tried to tap it. That wasn't working so I grabbed a big self-tapping bolt and...cracked the manifold. With my options being to swap in a manifold or go with it, I went with it. One bolt on that manifold was broken off when I got it and I fixed that. I didn't want to do that again. So, put some JB Weld into the hole to seal a bit and drove the bolt back in. Might just break off or leak but I've had worse. It is temporary, after all.
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Old 11-18-2016, 07:58 PM   #137
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Since pictures are fun, here's the '79 engine on the hook. Notice the third chain going diagonally and how flat the engine is. Made it easy to drop in. No intake on the engine but I wanted to make space in the garage and get the "Zombie" back on the ground. It's winter here, suddenly, and I need the second stall.
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Old 12-15-2016, 12:55 AM   #138
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Been a while in process, but I've gotten the CIS worked out enough to put a '79 engine into the '80 S. It starts and runs but won't "take the gas" when I press the throttle. I've checked a lot but can't find the false air leak that I'm sure is there. The car will idle at 1200 RPM fairly smoothly and do so until I turn it off. It's unresponsive to changes in the idle setscrew. I'll get this figured out. At least it runs without blowing fluids about.

I did spend a lot of time working to make the CIS workon the bench and wanted to share those results. In the end, I couldn't get the flow rates balanced as well as I liked but they were pretty close and I had to get the project moving along. A bit of math came to form my struggle:

8 x 8 x 8 = 512

There are 8 metering valves and 8 springs and 8 shims. When I took the fuel distributor top-up, all the bits fell out and got mixed up. That leaves 512 combinations of hole, spring and shim to work out. Plus aging and diaphragm damage that may make it never have the cylinders get balanced. Avoid this first mistake and:

Always disassemble the fuel distributor up-side down and carefully track which parts go where.

I've posted a few times on this. I'll rehash that a bit for completeness.

Using a spare CIS fuel pump, I set up a bench-test system for the CIS. It's easy enough. My initial goal was to flush gas through the fuel distributor and injectors and get the system cleaned out before putting it into a car. The initial work was problematic with the system being clogged. So I resolved to rebuild the fuel distributor and clean the injectors. And that's when the fun started.

I've lost track of the number of times I had the fuel distributor apart. Likely 20 or more. Pull it apart. Clean it a bit, put it back together and try it out. A few things have come clear to me on this.

Always use a fuel filter going into the system.

It's OK to re-cycle the gas that come from the return line. I found real trouble putting the gas back into the system that was caught coming out of the fuel injectors or leaks. I suspect those were getting contaminated from the tubs I as using. Something was going on as using fresh gas got good results put pouring the "caught" gas back into the supply gas can often lead to clogging of the distributor and WUR.

The thin, simple "washers" below the springs are shims and are more critical is setting flow rate than the springs themselves. I started to track flow rates versus shim height and it was a very clear trend of the thicker shims producing higher flow rates. By moving the shims around and comparing flow rates from the injectors with no other changes I could see that some springs were stiffer. Or the diaphragm was more compliant there.

By moving the shims to get a gross balance and then moving the springs based on which were "stiff" and "soft" I could get the fuel distributor back into some sort of balance.

Be very careful when installing the 8 small o-rings around the central core. It's very easy to have one pop off, slip up, break or have an abrasion. The result being an injector that comes on full blast and the trial is wasted. It was handy to have a bag of 100 o-ring to use. The more assembly cycles the o-rings are used in, then more likely they are to fail.

One effort that went well was characterizing the fuel injectors. I swapped them, one-at-a-time, to a line that flowed well. This lead to finding 8 (out of 17) that had comparable flow rates and good patterns.

Something quite interesting was that the fuel distributor on the "S" car is an adjustable distributor. The model number matches the one off the '79 and is correct for the car: 0 438 100 027. But! Each valve in the fuel distributor has an Allen-key adjustment on its side. I hadn't seen this before, or heard it mentioned, and could find this feature on other 928s. It looks like something for a Ferrari 400. Carl at 928 Motorsports sells an alloy version of this type of unit for strong money. Picture below.
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Old 04-23-2017, 07:41 PM   #139
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What's wrong with this picture?

Well, lots of things. First off, it's a US '79 engine in an '80 Euro S car. I swapped in this donor engine so I can move and drive the car while working on the Euro S engine.

I do want to call attention to the fine use of off-the-shelf hose to replace hoses on the '79.

The fancy heated vent hose is gone. The heater line, for the coolant, is replace by some 3/8" fuel line running from the rear of the right head back to the crossover. I though about blocking them off, maybe with a plate on the head, but put in a hose instead. For the vent line I've just got some big (1 1/4"?) water hose the runs over the side.

The hose from the auxiliary air regulator to the cold start valve was really crisp. That's replaced by some 3/4" heater hose and a couple of elbows. Had to go around the long way to make it work.

There's a similar approach for the brake booster. Easy to grab from the junk bins and make something work.

Check out the bright yellow wire for the alternator excitation. The original one inside that harness must have snapped off. There was 12V at the 14-pin connector but 0v at the alternator. Fixed now...

So I'm zooming the car around. The lower power level is really noticeable with 216 instead of 300hp. Maybe not tuned up so well, either. Still, it runs and drives and I can keep fixing the electrics and other things while pacing myself on the engines.
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Old 04-23-2017, 11:30 PM   #140
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Good progress. are you having any issues finding euro parts for the rebuild?
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Old 04-24-2017, 09:57 AM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlege View Post
Good progress. are you having any issues finding euro parts for the rebuild?
No... but I've been accumulating them for a while.

The main bearings are NLA but I spotted some on eBay. I've heard that the 97mm piston rings can be hard to get but I ordered them when, apparently, they were in stock. Most of the engine parts are shared with other engines so are available.
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Old 12-03-2017, 05:08 PM   #142
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I've started on the engine rebuild. This time it's the Euro S engine that came with the car. The car has a '79 US engine in it now.

I've gotten it apart with not much drama. It came apart fairly easily. Surprisingly, all the injector sleeves unscrewed just fine. One broken bolt on the heater hose outlet.

I'm trying to get the studs off the block and that's not going well. The plan is to have the deck milled to be flat. I've tried 4 or 5 and only one stud came loose. I'll see how it goes and may just let the machine shop remove them.

All the bearings looked and and the cylinders themselves are remarkably clean. Not a single scratch in any of them!

The outside of the engine was an oily mess with lots of caked-on, baked-on dirt. The inside is terrible. I ran synthetic oil in it thinking it'd clean up a bit but it's just black and gooey.
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:12 PM   #143
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bores do look great
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