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Old 09-16-2018, 11:58 PM   #181
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Default Engine running!

The engine fired up and runs! Just a few cranks to get fuel up to pressure. Oil pressure came right up, too. Not well as it's not tuned up, yet. Running far too rich, but that'll come.

Wrapping up the re-assembly. The air pump was removed and a 4L-210 belt fits snugly between the crank pulley and the fan.

To make the exhaust fit the '85 manifolds, I cut the right-side tube just in front of the muffler. The flanges line up well except are separated by ~4" straight fore/aft. Thinking poorly, cutting in the straight part ahead of the muffler makes the splice fairly easy but the new pipe position covers the bolts on the lower bellhousing. When I get it welded up, I'm going to have that repaired and make the extension splice near the manifold flange.

I'm using Valvoline VR1 50 weight for the break-in. I think it's the best oil that's easily available and not too pricey at $5/qt.

Otherwise, just bolting things in and up.
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Old 09-21-2018, 10:40 PM   #182
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Default Clutch master bled

Got the clutch master bled today. It wasn't that hard but it was messy. I recalled someone saying that they had bled it "backwards" by forcing fluid up from the slave. That worked great.

The slave was OK once I put it back together. Not sure what happened but the rod was in the catch can and I'd shot the piston out. ("how'd that get there?!") The slave was new a couple of years back so I reassembled it and put it back in.

I've got a vacuum pump with a brake bleeding cup. The cup has a top with two hoses attached. It seals tightly. Normally, a hose goes from the top and to the vacuum pump while the other hose runs down into the cup. When drawing fluid in, it goes to the bottom and just air leaves from the top. I used that to bleed the brakes and it worked well.

To bleed the master, I filled the cup and attached the "inlet" hose to the hard line at the slave. I removed the slave to reduce the volume of fluid needed. Then I very gently pressurized the cup from an air compressor to force the fluid up into the hardline and up into the master. Some fluid sprayed around and the brake fluid runs out pretty quickly when the line was not plugged. Took a couple of tries to figure it out. Had to top up the reservoir along the way.

After forcing a full cupful (maybe 2/3 cup of fluid) up into the system, and no air, I quickly attached the slave and vacuum bled that. I was surprised at how solid the clutch pedal felt. Ran the car and the clutch opens great with no dragging.
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Old 09-21-2018, 10:53 PM   #183
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Default Blow-by catch can

This catch can is for the blow-by coming out the top of the oil filler. The connection at the lower plenum for that hose is plugged. It's a 2 liter can with a handy sight gauge and a drain plug.

The can is mounted on the right side of the engine bay where the air filter for the air injection system. There are three 6mm bolt holes there but none point straight out. I used a piece of aluminum to fab a plate and that's bolted to the wall with the three holes and the can is bolted to the plate. It's really solid.

On my other car I had a lot of problems with blow-by carrying oil mist back into the intake. This leads to the well-known problem of 928 blowing a lot of oil smoke at high RPMs. The windage kit and tight rings should lower that but routing the blow-by out of the engine stops it all together. On my other 928, checking the catch volume is a good way to see if the oil ejection issue is controlled.

Something else on the engine is an oil control plate from 928 International. That goes under the oil filler to block oil being thrown off the crank from going into the stock separator can.
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Old 09-21-2018, 11:10 PM   #184
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Default Engine bay all assembled!

Whoa! What's this? All the engine bay parts are in! Also looks like months of work and years of planning. A couple of things to note:

The air intake tubes are replaced with 3" high-temp brake duct. Someone, somewhere, said the stock tubes are good to 350hp. The engine should be near that. This is a bit noisier than the stock "venturi tubes." The trick to installing them is to remove the outer cord wrapping and the inner wire from the last inch or two of the tube on each end. Then the stretchy tube will slide over the duct and airbox tubes.

The stock cross-brace is replaced by a nice, shiny, stiff unit from 928 Motorsports. This was a special order with no engraving.

In the middle there's the adpator to take the outlet from the oil filler cap, about 1", down to a 3/8" barb for the hose to the catch can. It's not a real project without some parts from the hardware store's plumbing aisle.

The car's down on the ground. Looks like the ride height and alignment will need some adjustment before it'll be really roadworthy. Way too much camber for sure.

After that, it's on the road!
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Old 09-24-2018, 06:37 PM   #185
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Default Suspension adjustment and alignment

This engine/WYAIT project is wrapping up!

Setting the suspension height now using my "locally made" gauge sticks. Measuring to the official spots on the bottom of the suspension is hard. With these I do it by feel. I'm setting the front to 155mm and the rear to 160mm.

Started off at 175mm and 145mm so it had a dashing rake and would have been scraping up a lot of speed-bumps and driveways. The last adjustment had the back set so the spring is slightly loose against the top with the shock extended while the front needed to compress a bit. If the rears were any stiffer it'd need those flat "helper springs" to keep the spring in place when the car gets lifted. I'll re-check it in a few days.

Otherwise, it's running pretty well. An odd oil leak near the tensioner that just might be the tensioner. Runs strong and idles well.

Gotta get the exhaust welded up and get to a dyno for some tuning runs. I've wanted to add a wide-band O2 sensor so I ca tune it myself to the A/F mixture. Still wouldn't add the power part to the tuning.
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Old 09-26-2018, 07:00 PM   #186
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This thread delivers. Thanks for keeping the thread updated. I have enjoyed it
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Old 09-27-2018, 11:36 AM   #187
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Looking good Glen. Nice project. Can't wait to hear how it drives.
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Old 10-01-2018, 11:14 AM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenL View Post
... Setting the suspension height now using my "locally made" gauge sticks. Measuring to the official spots on the bottom of the suspension is hard. With these I do it by feel. I'm setting the front to 155mm and the rear to 160mm. ...
Sticks work but I always worried about whether I was measuring straight up and down or a little canted

I found the kind of tool below very useful. Tighten the wing nut and push the device under/across the measuring flat and it will "set" to the height. Pull it out and you can measure easily, with good access.

https://www.harborfreight.com/multi-square-1701.html
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Old 10-08-2018, 09:59 PM   #189
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fogey1 View Post

I found the kind of tool below very useful. Tighten the wing nut and push the device under/across the measuring flat and it will "set" to the height. Pull it out and you can measure easily, with good access.

https://www.harborfreight.com/multi-square-1701.html
Usually there's a better way. That'd be an improvement over "a stick plus most of a finger." Thanks.
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Old 10-08-2018, 10:17 PM   #190
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Default First dyno results

Getting some numbers!

The car got to the dyno twice last week. The first session was revealed that the WUR was acting up. I had swapped then between my 2 cars and this was the suspect one but the car had run well with it. While tuning it, the car would refuse to start when tweaking the mixture to get a lower A/F at WOT. It'd show a very low A/F ratio, sub-12:1, when idling.

In the evening I scavenged the good, or at least better, WUR from the other car and swapped it in. So back the next day to run again. This time the car ran better at idle but still not getting low A/F when running. The A/F meter at the shop seems a bit suspect, though. It'd show 14:1 or 15:1 while the car was so rich it stung my eyes.

The numbers were a bit disappointing but still good. The top HP was 287 at the wheels. This was a Mustang dyno which is less optimistic that the Dynojet that's most common. It was also running 10% ethanol gas so some easy HP to find there.

The torque graph is really nice with a broad plateau with a peak of 280 ft-lbs at 4200 RPM. I need to get the FI system sorted and A/F set right to make any conclusions on if the retarded cams are having a positive effect. Comparing a dyno chart from the other car, this one is not tailing off the torque as quickly near 6000rpm.
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Old 10-08-2018, 10:37 PM   #191
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Default Track days!

Here's a great pic: getting the car out on the track. It was cool and drizzly at Brainerd Intl Raceway.

I thought the weekend went great even though the car had some issues.

The first problem was the brake pads, having been previously used, didn't mate up well with the rotors. I like Hawk Blues and moved a set in that'd been used a couple of weekends on car #1. They felt super spongy and when bleeding them I noticed that the fronts weren't contacting the rotors over most of the rotor. Nothing looked angled but there was enough to be a problem. A number of laps with excessive braking resolved this.

An exciting problem was something I had on the other car. The '85 manifolds are closer to the steering knuckle. In hard right turns the engine heaves over and the left manifold would contact the tip of the bolt that clamps the U-joint to the long shaft. Swapping the bolt end-to-end so the head faces the manifold in a corner solved the problem...mostly. It still feels like there's a bit of contact but it doesn't hold the wheel in place. That's not nice. I'll have to figure this out. Maybe new engine mounts are in order.

The biggest issue was an oil leak that was causing some smoke. The corner workers are not very agreeable and I got black flagged twice before figuring out the oil problem. The hoses for the "super cool" catch can were too small for the blow-by at high powers. This pressurized the engine and made oil squirt out especially from the top of the dipstick tube. It was quite a mystery how so much oil was coming out near there when the cam seal was dry.

I fixed that by removing the hose to the catch and just running a 1" hose over the side of the engine. That solves the oil leak but fed high-power blow-by and oil mist directly to the exhaust system. This changed what had been a frequent nuisance cloud into an occasional Jame Bond escape cloud. The straight at BIR is almost a full mile so plenty of time to build oil problems. If I kept the RPMs below 6K there wasn't a problem. If I held it at WOT a bit longer in each gear it'd make a cloud. Black flagged again! I decided that was enough for the weekend.

Still, a good weekend for me. Got the car out and shook down some problems. The car is running pretty strongly and it's handling well. No coolant usage. No odd noises. High oil pressure.

Reminds me... I changed the oil to Amsoil racing 15w50 before heading to the track. There was very little metal in the oil and very little in the oil filter. I've done a couple other 928 builds and found a lot more "sparkle" in the oil pan then. Maybe the Mahle rings shed less flakes than Goetze do.
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