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Old 07-22-2018, 09:29 PM   #166
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Default Block assembled with windage kit

So this was a day long in coming. The block is assembled with the windage kit put in!

I've been working on the windage kit for a while to make it fit. This one is from 928 Motorsports. I had ordered one from Ishihara-Johnson but Kevin Johnson has had medical problems and, after a year, refunded the money. I've got one of his kits in another car. Comparing the two, the I-J kit is better with more parts. The 928M kit is adequate, after a modification and addition. Still, it was on the shelf and I expect it to work fine.

The Windage kit has a fair number of parts. The right-side drain (1-4) directs oil from the heads back to the sump. It has fingers that stick out into the rotating assembly to do the scraping of oil and mist from it. This part went in easily and needed only minor filing to get good clearance.

The left-side (5-8) drain catches the oil from the head. and has a set of 4 finger that get attached and reach up into the block to catch draining oil. These are tricky to put on. The drains get bolted down with the M10 nuts/studs along the side. The drain needs to be on the studs but loose, and the crank turned just so, to get the fingers mounts to the drain. Helps to work from the back to the front. Something I found is that the little studs that are used to attach these are too short to allow the lock-nuts to really engage their lock rings. I put blue Loctite on all of them.

The plate down the middle took a small bit of filing to get clearances. One rod stud touched the plate. Otherwise, it just bolted on.

The trap doors needed some grinding to work right. They're supposed to move freely so they're closed when the car is accelerating and loose when cruising. When the hinges got torques down, the hinge for the door part got clamped to the underlying plate. Tooks a while to see the real problem. I guess the hinges should be loose as the rod is smaller and should give some space, but it didn't work out. I could see the marks on the plate from working the doors back-forth. Some black marker there helped to see what was touching, too. Finally, after a few passes of grinding and testing, the doors would move freely and will close and open with the car accel/decel.

Something sharp eyes will spot is the later oil pick-up. I've removed the stock "cloverleaf" and screen and put in the more basic pick-up. I'm not convinced the cloverleaf had any benefits and worried the rubber seal to the pick-up tube would age and leak. Also, the later pick-up has a screen while the earlier tube does not.

In preparation for the assembly, I calibrated my torque wrench. Good thing, too, as it was really low. I tried to eyeball that but maybe 20% off. I used a 35lb dumbell and measured along the wrench to find 12" and 18" places to hang it. So the wrench is calibrated to be good at 35ft-lbs and 52.5 ft-lbs. That's up to 75 Nm which is a good range for the work.
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Old 07-22-2018, 09:35 PM   #167
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Here's a pic of the trap doors. They will shut against that plate to keep the oil in the sump under acceleration.

THe front sump isn't a great idea for a high-performance car. Really, a dry sump would be best. I've done some analysis of the car's acceleration and found that the oil won't drain down the flat section of the pan during hard acceleration in gears 1-2-3-4. This is shifting over 6000 RPM and wide-open throttle. Only in 5th gear will the oil start to flow into the sump. The oil in the sump is being forced backwards under acceleration and will roll out of the sump and up the pan and into the rotating assembly. It's no wonder these cars have oiling problems.

Just one thing missing...
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Old 07-22-2018, 09:49 PM   #168
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When I got the kit from 928 Motorsports, I looked in the parts and in the instructions for the plate along the back of the sump. There was none. This part is in the I-J kit and is critical to making the sump control work.

The first pic shows the plate I cut out. It juts out from the back of the sump and provides an edge for the trap doors to seal against. Otherwise, the doors just stick down and don't impede the flow of the oil out of the sump upon acceleration.

The second pic shows a part from the kit added where it'll be when the oil pan is added to the engine. The doors aren't on it so those two square holes will be filled.

Measured the spacing a lot and I hope it fits snugly to maximize oil kept in the sump. At least, the plate effectively moves the back of the sump forwards an inch so more oil will be kept in the sump and 1 inch further toward the front and over the pick-up.
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File Type: jpg PlateAndBaffle.jpg (238.8 KB, 3 views)
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Last edited by GlenL; 07-23-2018 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 07-31-2018, 09:55 AM   #169
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Default Heads On

Got the heads on!

Sharp eyes will note that the long studs are ARP replacements and the short studs are stock Porsche. I'm sensing a problem with one stock stud as it's really soft when being tightened. The other stud is stiff. I'll check for another stud to replace it. I'll be doing a few re-tighten cycles before adding the cam towers.

The ARP studs have a torque spec of 100ft-lbs. That's a lot. They've got a finer pitch, too, at 1.25mm instead of 1.5mm on the stock studs. With their fancy lube, those things are super tight. I'll be using 2 90 degree turns on the stock studs and considering how it feels.
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Old 08-06-2018, 12:50 PM   #170
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Default Pulled the stud

Well... It can't all be roses.

When taking the studs out of the block I broke one. Shoulda applied heat again instead of cranking it harder. Hindisght is good like that.

The machine shop (TPIS in Chaska, MN) got the stub out and used Heli-Coil (M12x1.5mm) to fix the threads in the block. When I tried to put on the head it yielded below 35ft-lbs. The stud looked to have aluminum in the threads (no spring thing) so I figured they hadn't done a Heli-Coil and sourced the kit.

When I went to do the Heli-Coil I could see the old coils in the block. Took a while to fish them out. The block was drilled right as a 31/64 bit went in smoothly but not a 1/2". The trick is the instructions (deep down) say to use a slightly smaller bit for aluminum that's probably unobtainable. Using my hindsight (again) it'd have been best to go without drilling and be super patient to get the new, sharp tap to ream the hole as needed.

I cleaned up the hole and inserted new Heli-Coils. They had 2 18mm coils and I used 3 although about the last 8mm just hung out of the threaded section. (The threads don't go all the way to the top.) This time it torqued to 55ft-lbs but failed going to 80ft-lbs. The cheap boroscope I've got could see that the coils were just being pulled up the hole. The bottom ~3/8" of coil doesn't cover the stud and there was a big gap to the rest of the Heli-Coil stack.

So! Next up is a Time-Sert. (kit 1215) The machine shop agrees that it's the right way to go. That tube (#12159) is only 30mm but should be enough. Maybe I can hack one and get it into the bore lower down. One can hope. If this doesn't work it'll be back to the shop for welding to fill the hole and then drilling/tapping the "fresh" metal.

The ARP studs are all holding great. Those got 90ft-lbs (100 is spec from ARP). With their special lube, lower nut pitch (1.25mm) and new fasteners, the tension on those has got to be huge.

That'll be later this week. I'm going to be optimistic and continue to put the front-end of the block on.
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