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Old 07-22-2018, 09:29 PM   #166
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Default Block assembled with windage kit

So this was a day long in coming. The block is assembled with the windage kit put in!

I've been working on the windage kit for a while to make it fit. This one is from 928 Motorsports. I had ordered one from Ishihara-Johnson but Kevin Johnson has had medical problems and, after a year, refunded the money. I've got one of his kits in another car. Comparing the two, the I-J kit is better with more parts. The 928M kit is adequate, after a modification and addition. Still, it was on the shelf and I expect it to work fine.

The Windage kit has a fair number of parts. The right-side drain (1-4) directs oil from the heads back to the sump. It has fingers that stick out into the rotating assembly to do the scraping of oil and mist from it. This part went in easily and needed only minor filing to get good clearance.

The left-side (5-8) drain catches the oil from the head. and has a set of 4 finger that get attached and reach up into the block to catch draining oil. These are tricky to put on. The drains get bolted down with the M10 nuts/studs along the side. The drain needs to be on the studs but loose, and the crank turned just so, to get the fingers mounts to the drain. Helps to work from the back to the front. Something I found is that the little studs that are used to attach these are too short to allow the lock-nuts to really engage their lock rings. I put blue Loctite on all of them.

The plate down the middle took a small bit of filing to get clearances. One rod stud touched the plate. Otherwise, it just bolted on.

The trap doors needed some grinding to work right. They're supposed to move freely so they're closed when the car is accelerating and loose when cruising. When the hinges got torques down, the hinge for the door part got clamped to the underlying plate. Tooks a while to see the real problem. I guess the hinges should be loose as the rod is smaller and should give some space, but it didn't work out. I could see the marks on the plate from working the doors back-forth. Some black marker there helped to see what was touching, too. Finally, after a few passes of grinding and testing, the doors would move freely and will close and open with the car accel/decel.

Something sharp eyes will spot is the later oil pick-up. I've removed the stock "cloverleaf" and screen and put in the more basic pick-up. I'm not convinced the cloverleaf had any benefits and worried the rubber seal to the pick-up tube would age and leak. Also, the later pick-up has a screen while the earlier tube does not.

In preparation for the assembly, I calibrated my torque wrench. Good thing, too, as it was really low. I tried to eyeball that but maybe 20% off. I used a 35lb dumbell and measured along the wrench to find 12" and 18" places to hang it. So the wrench is calibrated to be good at 35ft-lbs and 52.5 ft-lbs. That's up to 75 Nm which is a good range for the work.
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Old 07-22-2018, 09:35 PM   #167
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Here's a pic of the trap doors. They will shut against that plate to keep the oil in the sump under acceleration.

THe front sump isn't a great idea for a high-performance car. Really, a dry sump would be best. I've done some analysis of the car's acceleration and found that the oil won't drain down the flat section of the pan during hard acceleration in gears 1-2-3-4. This is shifting over 6000 RPM and wide-open throttle. Only in 5th gear will the oil start to flow into the sump. The oil in the sump is being forced backwards under acceleration and will roll out of the sump and up the pan and into the rotating assembly. It's no wonder these cars have oiling problems.

Just one thing missing...
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Old 07-22-2018, 09:49 PM   #168
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When I got the kit from 928 Motorsports, I looked in the parts and in the instructions for the plate along the back of the sump. There was none. This part is in the I-J kit and is critical to making the sump control work.

The first pic shows the plate I cut out. It juts out from the back of the sump and provides an edge for the trap doors to seal against. Otherwise, the doors just stick down and don't impede the flow of the oil out of the sump upon acceleration.

The second pic shows a part from the kit added where it'll be when the oil pan is added to the engine. The doors aren't on it so those two square holes will be filled.

Measured the spacing a lot and I hope it fits snugly to maximize oil kept in the sump. At least, the plate effectively moves the back of the sump forwards an inch so more oil will be kept in the sump and 1 inch further toward the front and over the pick-up.
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File Type: jpg PlateAndBaffle.jpg (238.8 KB, 3 views)
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Old 07-31-2018, 09:55 AM   #169
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Default Heads On

Got the heads on!

Sharp eyes will note that the long studs are ARP replacements and the short studs are stock Porsche. I'm sensing a problem with one stock stud as it's really soft when being tightened. The other stud is stiff. I'll check for another stud to replace it. I'll be doing a few re-tighten cycles before adding the cam towers.

The ARP studs have a torque spec of 100ft-lbs. That's a lot. They've got a finer pitch, too, at 1.25mm instead of 1.5mm on the stock studs. With their fancy lube, those things are super tight. I'll be using 2 90 degree turns on the stock studs and considering how it feels.
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Old 08-06-2018, 12:50 PM   #170
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Default Pulled the stud

Well... It can't all be roses.

When taking the studs out of the block I broke one. Shoulda applied heat again instead of cranking it harder. Hindisght is good like that.

The machine shop (TPIS in Chaska, MN) got the stub out and used Heli-Coil (M12x1.5mm) to fix the threads in the block. When I tried to put on the head it yielded below 35ft-lbs. The stud looked to have aluminum in the threads (no spring thing) so I figured they hadn't done a Heli-Coil and sourced the kit.

When I went to do the Heli-Coil I could see the old coils in the block. Took a while to fish them out. The block was drilled right as a 31/64 bit went in smoothly but not a 1/2". The trick is the instructions (deep down) say to use a slightly smaller bit for aluminum that's probably unobtainable. Using my hindsight (again) it'd have been best to go without drilling and be super patient to get the new, sharp tap to ream the hole as needed.

I cleaned up the hole and inserted new Heli-Coils. They had 2 18mm coils and I used 3 although about the last 8mm just hung out of the threaded section. (The threads don't go all the way to the top.) This time it torqued to 55ft-lbs but failed going to 80ft-lbs. The cheap boroscope I've got could see that the coils were just being pulled up the hole. The bottom ~3/8" of coil doesn't cover the stud and there was a big gap to the rest of the Heli-Coil stack.

So! Next up is a Time-Sert. (kit 1215) The machine shop agrees that it's the right way to go. That tube (#12159) is only 30mm but should be enough. Maybe I can hack one and get it into the bore lower down. One can hope. If this doesn't work it'll be back to the shop for welding to fill the hole and then drilling/tapping the "fresh" metal.

The ARP studs are all holding great. Those got 90ft-lbs (100 is spec from ARP). With their special lube, lower nut pitch (1.25mm) and new fasteners, the tension on those has got to be huge.

That'll be later this week. I'm going to be optimistic and continue to put the front-end of the block on.
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Old 08-20-2018, 11:27 PM   #171
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Default Fixed the stud

The stud has been fixed. At least for now. It got a Big-Sert at the machine shop and they torqued the head down. It's holding at 80 ft-lbs so good for now. I am a bit concerned that it won't hold over the long term. The shop used the inserts that come with the kit. Those are 16mm long and there are 24mm and 30mm inserts available. I almost took it apart to put in a 30mm but held off as the chance of screwing it up is good.

Here's some pics. The first one is the Heli-Coil kit. The second is the Time-Sert kits. The third is the Big-Sert.

The attempt with the Time-Sert was a bust. It turns out that the Heli-Coil and TIme-Sert use exactly the same tap. It's all a big "secrret" but they use standard tap sizes. The taps in both kits are indistinguishable, expect for banding, and are 14mmx1.5mm taps. Didn't measure what size the Big-Sert tap is. A clever guy could get a 14mmx1.5mm tap and some coils and just do it. The Time-Sert uses a spacial tap to set and bore-out the insert. It'll work without that tap but not as well.

Hindsight says the shop should have used the Time-Sert right off the bat. And that I should have tried it instead of trying to Heli-Coil it again.

The machine shop originally said that they'd weld it up and drill it afresh. After looking at it they said it was "too deep" to weld. Once again, I should have just done the Big-Sert myself and I'd have gotten the 30mm. 16mm is as long as the nut but I'd have liked more confidence. And, nope, they didn't cut the labor for doing the re-re-work. In the end, breaking the stud cost $700 to fix...and I'm still waiting to fire it up.
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File Type: jpg HeliCoil.jpg (223.6 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg TimeSert.jpg (235.4 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg BigSert.jpg (212.5 KB, 0 views)
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Old 08-20-2018, 11:36 PM   #172
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Default Belt tensioner and water pump

Moving right along...

Here's a happy pic of the belt tensioner system and water pump. This is an S4 system put on the '80 block. Got the Geba water pump and that supports the brace to the stud. Then the S4 tensioner and tensioner arm.

That all went on pretty easily. I spent some time looking for bolts as the S4 tensioner is thicker and none of the bolts in the coffee can were long enough for the lower bolt. Needed a $2 bolt at the neighborhood True Value. The tensioner gasket is holding the oil in the tensioner. The block isn't any different in that area.

The lower idler is updated, too. Why not add the little roller that never touches the belt? I've heard that most are frozen solid from never being used. All these parts, except the WP, came off eBay fairly affordably. And the Gates square-toothed belt, too.

One mod was to the belt cover. It was touching the brace of the WP. Some filing took care of that. Looks good.
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Old 08-20-2018, 11:52 PM   #173
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Default Offset Woodruf Keys

On my other 928, I used an offset Woodruf key to get the cams aligned. The older cams have no degreeing ability. These are Mercedes parts that come on a lot of cars like 1984-1989 Mercedes-Benz 190.

Something I found is that the Mercedes must have a larger diameter cam. When they say "3 degrees" I calculated about 4.1.

On this engine, I wanted to not just align the cams but to retard them. That'll move the torque peak up in the RPM band. As this is going to be a track car, that'll add power where it's used.

The first pic shows the cam timing for 1-4 (right). That's typical where the engine is 2-3 degrees late. Going to make it a bit later and move the 5-8 cam to match.

The second pic shows the Woodruff Keys. Unfortunately, the cams use logs so those need to be ground down. That's the third picture showing the stock keys and ground-down keys. I got three keys in 2-3-4 degrees to use.

Originally, I was going to move them to be each retarded 4 degrees but instead left the 1-4 alone and just retarded the right 3 degrees.
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File Type: jpg SteppedKeys.jpg (157.6 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg ShapedKeys.jpg (240.0 KB, 0 views)
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Old 08-20-2018, 11:59 PM   #174
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Default Exhaust studs

Does Dorman sell exhust studs for the 928? No. They sell kit 03411B for the Ford V8 and V10. They're cheap, the right thread (M8x1.25mm) and length and come with locknuts. 10 studs per box. Re-use the stock washers. Done.
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Old 08-25-2018, 05:11 PM   #175
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Default 85-85 Exhaust manifolds

The engine is getting these "shorty header" exhaust manifolds that came on '86 and '86 32V engines. (Maybe others, worldwide) A lot more cross-area than the cast "lima bean" manifolds that are stock.

The basically bolt right up although I did need to drill out one hole. On the end ports (1,4,5,8) there are two holes and one was bigger than the other. They didn't quite slide nicely down the studs. I drilled out the small hole to match the larger one and it went on nicely. The two holes were spaced correctly on-center so the big hole extended closer to the pipe. The middle flanges are slots.

The manifolds come with little fitting for exhaust gas testing. I looked for O2 sensors but the threads are M14x1.5 and no O2 sensors are that small. I think they're all M18, anyways. I've plugged those with oil drain plugs for a Honda. That's the gold bolt near the end. Removed the rubber seal and added a crush ring. Didn't have to cut the bolt or anything.
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Old 08-25-2018, 05:17 PM   #176
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Default Pulled the other engine

Here's good progress. I set a personal best for an engine pull at 3:15. Well, maybe 4:00 counting that I jacked up the car, removed the front wheels, and drained the radiator the night before.

Things go fast when it's all been apart recently. I put the engine in less than two years ago. Been driving the '80S with a '79 US engine since then. It's fun but the power difference is real.

I used a couple of ticks. One is not much of a traick as the AC system was removed before. No messing with the compressor or the condenser. The real trick is to unbolt the clutch from the flywheel and leave the clutch attached to the intermediate shaft and torque tube. I pulled the radiator and, with the chains hort, the engine engine will come out the front and the hood stays on. I remove the PS reservoir, ignition coil and jump post to gain some clearance. Up and out!
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Old 08-25-2018, 05:19 PM   #177
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Default Keeping busy, too.

You may have wondered why the new engine is squatting on some cinder blocks. Well, the engine in my 944 N/A suffered a bearing failure (#2) at the track. Someone else was driving it at the time and just may have been downshifting it too aggressively in the braking zone. I'm getting some help on that build. I want to have both cars set-up and ready for a track weekend the first week in October.
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Old 09-08-2018, 10:16 PM   #178
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Sometimes progress is hard to see. I'e been working on the rebuild of the car that's doable with the engine out. And finishing up the engine but that's just assembling the bolt-on parts.

The pic isn't too interesting but shows a new brake master, new heater hoses and a new blue hose that runs to a new clutch master.

The clutch master is a real pain. I've done one before but perhaps that car had the smaller brake booster. This swap requires removing the booster to get swap the clutch master. That's a headache, and backache, of laying under the dash to get the clevis' off the pedals and to bolt-in the new unit. The clutch master sits on the engine side of the firewall but it bolts from the inside. Hard to get it aligned just by myself. A wad of newspaper would hold the clutch master close to the right position and then I could jiggle it into place from the inside.

The heater hoses are a bit of a luxury. This is a track car but this is Minnesota. Heat and defrost is nice here. The car will remain street legal, too. Also, I'm not worried about making the PCA class weight so don't need to pull every available ounce. Those were easy once I removed the wiper motor.

While in there... I fixed the washer pump and the plumbing for it. The wipers work and the washer works, too, now. I've gotten a URO pump before but the manufacturing tolerances in the pump are too low so it won't re-prime itself. THis motor was OK but the pump was jammed. Some careful work to not strip the shaft or break it and it eventually turned easily.

Meanwhile, I've been working on the coilovers, too. Putting in 2.5" coils on Koni shocks. I'm targeting 550 lbs/in in front and 400 lbs/in in back. I'm working out the mounting and coil lengths.
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Old 09-12-2018, 12:01 AM   #179
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Moving right along... I tested and installed the fuel injection system.

The testing went rather well. The fuel distributor that came with this Euro S is a non-standard part with flow adjustment on each injector. I posted about this here:
http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=138

The pic shows the test rig with that fuel distributor and new Bosch injectors for the Mercedes These are brass and a 1/2" shorted but cheaper.

The testing went very well. After getting the system fired up and all the injectors warmed up, the flow rates were very even. With the fuel distributor set for wide open, each gave 15-17 ml in 5 seconds. I found that each measurement going around between injectors was trending up. The first injector was 14ml and the last was 17 but checking the first it was 17, too. The spray patterns were great with gas mist coming from each.

I chose not to mess with the balance or worry about matching injectors to ports. Just installed the injectors and FD and connected up all the lines.

A few more minor bits to add and the engine will be ready to install!
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Old 09-14-2018, 12:17 PM   #180
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Default Koni Coil-overs

The engine is in! Still not hooked up or started. I want to be ready to lower the car so am finishing up the suspension first.

I'm swapping the 5" springs to a 2.5" ID "hypercoil" system. Not Hypercoils but Summit Racing house brand. The front is 5" 500 lbs/in and the rear is 7" 400lbs/in.

I've sourced the mounting parts from eBay and Summit. Got some cheap used bits from eBay that work fine. The lower parts are easy as the Koni's are pretty standard 2" bodies with good seating rings. The front worked with a 5" threaded sleeve and the rear needed a 7" sleeve. Both have stock adjuster rings.

The tops are a bit trickier. The fronts are using the bit pictured that included the round, gold-colored piece that fits nicely into the stock top. To make that fit right on the shaft, I broke up a couple of cracked rod covers (the black tubes) and pulled out the metal collar. That's just above the spring in the first picture which shows a front disassembled. That provides the offset on the shaft so the top nut compresses the rubber top onto the rod correctly.

For the rears, I got an official Koni shock top. (P/N 80-0000-0008) this fits snugly over the rod and fits nicely against the stock shock top. I left the metal bottom on the shock top as it supports the rubber part. The Koni top is for a 2.25" spring but the 2.5" spring still works. The total height on the rod is good with the nut going just below the top thread when tight. I was afraid of needing to grind down the Koni top but it worked.

I'll have all these in soon and get it fired up this weekend. Might even be driving it!
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File Type: jpg FrontShockParts.jpg (170.5 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg AssembledKonis.jpg (135.8 KB, 0 views)
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