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Unread 01-19-2011, 05:03 PM   #46
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Looks great as usual George!
I'm sure it will be a blast to drive with a great powerband. I would keep boost below 18 psi and enjoy it. Even without detonation or heat issues there's a lot of potential problems with high power.

My 16v engine has 9.5:1 compression. At 1 bar of boost it spins my 295 R888 in 3rd gear before they're at high (track) temps.
Duke, sorry about the misquote on your CR. I was incorrect using an 11-1 ratio. Thanks for correcting me.

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Unread 01-23-2011, 03:12 AM   #47
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Quick update. We had some issues getting the car to run more than 30 seconds. Went through everything and called Fred, the owner of TEC. He asked very good questions and finally found out that when using the factory 968 crank pickup, you have to reverse the polarity. OK, switched the wires, and the car fired immediately. Nice to know Electromotive has good cusomer service and will trouble shoot the little things.

We've gone through about 6 gallons of gas tuning on the rack. I was worried about edle quality using the 100lb hour Hot Pinks, and with sequential we were able to get a smooth idle at 600rpm. We wanted to run as little FP as possible, and it looks like we got what we wanted.

No leaks, no piston slap at all using JE pistons. Getting very close to finally have this car ready for dyno tuning. We are using Evans coolant with a 4 psi overflow cap.

The oil temps were getting up to 220, and we found that the 180 degree (when open) oil thermostat wasn't opening. Put a new one in today, and the oil is now flowing through both coolers.

Getting closer. I'll post our dyno results when we feel everything is tuned properly.

I'll get some video for those that like to watch.

This list seems to have a really nice community. It's nice to have fellow 951 nuts shareing their experience while being nice.

A thank you is in order.

Regards,

George
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Unread 01-23-2011, 03:17 AM   #48
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George--I haven't been over to this site in a while, so glad to see you are making great progress. Are you running JE pistons in an Alusil bore -- or did you sleeve the motor?
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Unread 01-23-2011, 03:25 AM   #49
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I have a Recaro pole position 5 point seat as my driving seat. Issue is that many of my friends, driving instructors incleded have a very hard time fitting.

Any of you have experience with the Corbeau reclining 5 point seats. Seems like decent seats. Any comments or experience.

Thanks,

George
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Unread 01-23-2011, 03:34 AM   #50
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George--I haven't been over to this site in a while, so glad to see you are making great progress. Are you running JE pistons in an Alusil bore -- or did you sleeve the motor?
We sent the block to US Chrome for NiCom coating. http://uschrome.com/nicom_ds.html Lets run most pistons.

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Unread 01-23-2011, 09:16 AM   #51
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We sent the block to US Chrome for NiCom coating. http://uschrome.com/nicom_ds.html Lets run most pistons.

George

Oh that's right, I forgot you did that. There are folks out there who try JE pistons in alusil, but happy to hear you aren't doing that. Looks great and looking forward to your full report when it's up and running.
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Unread 01-23-2011, 05:06 PM   #52
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George, is the 4PSI cap particular to running with Evans, or is that something different for your set up?

I'd like to see some in-car video!
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Unread 01-24-2011, 04:55 PM   #53
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Good progress George. That was a good catch re reversing the polarity. I'd never heard of that. I wonder if anyone else has?

What's the thinking in running as low FP as possible? What fpr are you using 3bar?
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Unread 01-24-2011, 05:28 PM   #54
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Good to hear you're making steadily progress George!
Really looking forward to the dyno.

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That was a good catch re reversing the polarity. I'd never heard of that. I wonder if anyone else has?
If you switch the +/- on reluctor sensors you get the same sinus curve but reversed meaning the curve starts the other way around (eg dropping to negative before rising). It's stuff like that you need a scope to figure out (besides trial and error).
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Unread 01-24-2011, 08:00 PM   #55
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George, is the 4PSI cap particular to running with Evans, or is that something different for your set up?

I'd like to see some in-car video!
Yes, this is particular to Evans coolant. NPG+ Evans won't boil till 375 degrees. You can run with zero pressure, but I have a steam vent, and I want to have some pressure in the system and Evans recommends some pressure on my particular car. Read this link: http://www.evanscooling.com/water-ba...fferentiators/

This is the first time I've used the product, and we are seeing similar cooling temps as when using a water based coolant. The less pressure in any contained system is easier on all parts involved. Plus this stiff is KY slippery. Good for moving parts.

I decided on this product because I think we have head gasket issues because of localized boiling and hot spots when we are running our motors hard. Anything I can do to help eliminate the hot spots that I'm sure existed when I was running hard will help my motor be more reliable.

George
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Unread 01-24-2011, 08:09 PM   #56
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Good progress George. That was a good catch re reversing the polarity. I'd never heard of that. I wonder if anyone else has?

What's the thinking in running as low FP as possible? What fpr are you using 3bar?
It's a rising rate fuel regulator. We are running sequential. We are running new Bosche Hot Pink 100lbhr high impedance injectors. We got it to idle better than stock at 600rpm. I was relieved as most told me we would not get a good idle.

I felt that the less fuel pressure the better the spray, and the easier it is on all working parts of my fuel system. I remember running HUGE PSI many years ago with stock injectors to get over 300whp and I don't think it was a good way to get proper A/F ratios on a consistent basis. Running anything up to it's limits is asking for potential trouble. I don't think we will be outflowing these injectors with our HP goals...LOL If we can do this with less FP, it seems like a good idea.

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Unread 01-24-2011, 08:28 PM   #57
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Good progress George. That was a good catch re reversing the polarity. I'd never heard of that. I wonder if anyone else has?

What's the thinking in running as low FP as possible? What fpr are you using 3bar?
We didn't catch it. Dave used his scope and was baffled. Fred, the owner of TEC knew this immediately once we told him we were using a factory 968 flywheel trigger. Duke explained this in his post, but it's over my head. All I care about is that TEC helped us out, and it's now one thing to check off the tuning list.

George
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Unread 01-24-2011, 08:41 PM   #58
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Oh that's right, I forgot you did that. There are folks out there who try JE pistons in alusil, but happy to hear you aren't doing that. Looks great and looking forward to your full report when it's up and running.
Yeah, I don't care how you coat them, they won't work well over time in alusil blocks. BMW proved this years ago in their V8's and replaced engines by the thousands under warranty in the 5 and 7 series cars.

Copied from these guys: http://www.928motorsports.com/services/uschrome.php

WHAT IT IS: The US Chrome process is trademarked as "NiCom®", (because Porsche® holds the trademark on the term "Nikasil®") , but the process was brought over from the Mahle plant in Stuttgart and is identical to the quality and finish that Mahle performs for Porsche® on its OEM engines. There are a few other platers in the US that have an aluminum block plating process, but they do not deposit the density of 2 micron-sized carbide particles as NiCom® does, and the end result is inferior.


I wanted to run whatever piston I wanted, and I felt this was the best route for my application. This is a great alternative when it comes to re-building our motors, in my opinion of course.

George
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Unread 01-24-2011, 09:48 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by George D View Post
Yeah, I don't care how you coat them, they won't work well over time in alusil blocks. BMW proved this years ago in their V8's and replaced engines by the thousands under warranty in the 5 and 7 series cars.

Copied from these guys: http://www.928motorsports.com/services/uschrome.php

WHAT IT IS: The US Chrome process is trademarked as "NiCom®", (because Porsche® holds the trademark on the term "Nikasil®") , but the process was brought over from the Mahle plant in Stuttgart and is identical to the quality and finish that Mahle performs for Porsche® on its OEM engines. There are a few other platers in the US that have an aluminum block plating process, but they do not deposit the density of 2 micron-sized carbide particles as NiCom® does, and the end result is inferior.


I wanted to run whatever piston I wanted, and I felt this was the best route for my application. This is a great alternative when it comes to re-building our motors, in my opinion of course.

George
Rumor has it my block has returned from US Chrome with beautiful bores as well! Although I haven't seen any pictures of it!

A definite plus while doing a full rebuild, to allow a wider selection of pistons!
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Unread 01-24-2011, 10:11 PM   #60
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Rumor has it my block has returned from US Chrome with beautiful bores as well! Although I haven't seen any pictures of it!

A definite plus while doing a full rebuild, to allow a wider selection of pistons!
I've been trying to keep the wear items OE on this build. A lotta 968 here, a little 911tt there, and plenty of 951 everywhere. Because Porsche OE uses this cylinder coating process, it's good enough for my motor. The ability to use most forged aftermarket pistons is great. Porsche stopped R&D on our cars MANY years ago.

Manufacturing and R & D in the aftermarket industry have gotten very good. Many of the aftermarket manufacturers are vastly superior to OE when it comes to forged pistons, rods, etc. Being able to utilize modern pistons and rods in these motors are important if you care about strength/weight ratios.

Quoted from 928 Motorsports:

The US Chrome process is trademarked as "NiCom®", (because Porsche® holds the trademark on the term "Nikasil®") , but the process was brought over from the Mahle plant in Stuttgart and is identical to the quality and finish that Mahle performs for Porsche® on its OEM engines.

Your block should last a long time. This process is proven. It costs less than a grand to get this done on a 2.5 block. Worth every cent if you plan on building a high hp/tq motor with LIGHT/modern internals.

George
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