M670 stereo door map pockets

[CurtP]

Anyone have a set in very good condition laying around they want to get rid of? Or can anyone here make a new set in fiberglass or plastic?

I haven't had much luck trying to repair the map pockets on my old door cards, so I don't think I'll have any luck trying to fix these either. Plastic epoxy doesn't seem to stick to it very long. Superglue seems to work the best, but it doesn't hold up well to the stress.

I can't tell if there are still any in the system, but when I pull up the part numbers, they're around $450/ea!

If someone can reproduce these for a reasonable cost, I'd be all over a new set (hint, hint CPR )! My previous experience with fiberglass makes me realize this is beyond my patience level.

[pontifex4]

Curt, where are they broken, and what kind of adhesive were you using? I have a spare set of black non-10 speaker ones, and a set of burgundy 10 speaker ones, but neither of those is in your colour, right?

This stuff is a little pricey, but it's about the only thing I've used which will bond to polyethylene and polypropylene: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Adhesives-D.../dp/B000LDLD5C

Not that I'm sure it would work well on this particular door plastic...

[CurtP]

What kind of condition are your burgundy ones? Color doesn't matter as long as the plastic is good.

The problem with mine is the base plastic - mainly where the screw holes along the bottom are. They're the typical cracked/broken/missing chunks. I used Loctite plastic epoxy that I picked up from Advance Auto. I was thinking about trying Hysol 0151.

[pontifex4]

Originally Posted by CurtP

What kind of condition are your burgundy ones? Color doesn't matter as long as the plastic is good.

The problem with mine is the base plastic - mainly where the screw holes along the bottom are. They're the typical cracked/broken/missing chunks. I used Loctite plastic epoxy that I picked up from Advance Auto. I was thinking about trying Hysol 0151.

Those things are really weak, aren't they? Do you think you could glue a washer around each screw hole on the back (door) side? That would likely give you better holding power. Better still might be some poly mat soaked in epoxy.

The burgundy ones are good, except that one of the upper clips (where the pocket meets the armrest, at the front) has broken off. I'll know for sure when I start cutting into the doors whether I'll need them or not and let you know.

[fbgh2o]

Curt,

I had the same problem with mine. I sandwiched washers in really high strength two part epoxy around each hole to create a bond to both the plastic and to each other. It's not pretty, but it seems to have held thus far.

This is a picture of the back side.

[CurtP]

Originally Posted by pontifex4

Those things are really weak, aren't they? Do you think you could glue a washer around each screw hole on the back (door) side? That would likely give you better holding power. Better still might be some poly mat soaked in epoxy.

The burgundy ones are good, except that one of the upper clips (where the pocket meets the armrest, at the front) has broken off. I'll know for sure when I start cutting into the doors whether I'll need them or not and let you know.

Weak and people overtighten the screws which exacerbates the problem.

I haven't tried anything with the M670 pieces yet. I tried the washer on my old ones with both epoxy and cyanoacrylate - both failed after some time, and I only snugged the screws down (I put a little silicone sealer on the tip of the screw before installing it to keep it from backing out). Maybe I'll try it again using the epoxy you suggested and roughing up the surface with some 40 grit. I was thinking about removing and replacing the old carpet on them prior to installation. I was wondering how Linen door panels would look with black carpet on those with Linen trim.

I still have to find one replacement metal grill though. I don't think I can fix it.

Lord Fusor makes some plastic adhesives that I've had really good luck with. I could rebuild the screw holes with 101EZ or bond the washers on with 116. How long has the DP-8005 been holding up for you?

[pontifex4]

Originally Posted by CurtP

How long has the DP-8005 been holding up for you?

That's the hitch -- I haven't used it on these panels. I have used it to bond King Starboard when fasteners wouldn't do, though, and it seems to take vibration fine. As you say, you'll have better luck if you hit both surfaces with 40-grit first, then clean them well.

What I think would be ideal in this situation is some kind of metal grommet which could take the clamping force. No idea how you'd get it in there, though.

[CurtP]

Originally Posted by pontifex4

What I think would be ideal in this situation is some kind of metal grommet which could take the clamping force. No idea how you'd get it in there, though.

Funny you mentioned the metal grommet. I was looking through McMaster last night looking at their shouldered washers. I was thinking that I could bond the washer from the back with the shoulder facing outwards. The screw would tighten against the shoulder of the washer relieving all the pressure from the plastic. Porsche uses shouldered washers on the engine tray protective plate:



I just haven't been able to find anything suitable. The ones that would be small enough for the doors are made out of nylon. Maybe I could rebuild the mounting holes and use the nylon shouldered washers without bonding them to the map pocket.

[CurtP]

I have the pockets/grills completely torn apart. One thought I had was to use black carpet on them (they're Linen). Another thought was to cover them in Linen leather.

But I have to get the base plastic repaired. The passenger side one doesn't look like it will be too difficult. But the driver's side is in really bad shape - I don't know if I'll be able to salvage it. It's broken, split and every pin on it is broken. I'm going to start to look for a replacement.

[pontifex4]

Curt, I just heard about another plastic adhesive/epoxy which is supposed to be good, and stay flexible: it's called Dynatron #660 plastic bumper repair, and it's a two-part epoxy-style product which turns out to be very popular for fixing (and adding to) interior plastics. They say that you can build it up like a thick epoxy. I'm going to get some and try it, but it may take a while to find it up here!

[CurtP]

Any idea what the pockets are made from? It's kind of hard to do a repair without knowing what I'm dealing with. Right now my bets are with Lord Fusor 101EZ. I've had good luck with it and it is some really strong stuff. I'm not familiar with Dynatron. SEM also has bumper 2-part bumper repair epoxy - 68422. Never tried it either.

[pontifex4]

Originally Posted by CurtP

Any idea what the pockets are made from? It's kind of hard to do a repair without knowing what I'm dealing with. Right now my bets are with Lord Fusor 101EZ. I've had good luck with it and it is some really strong stuff. I'm not familiar with Dynatron. SEM also has bumper 2-part bumper repair epoxy - 68422. Never tried it either.

I get the impression that the SEM stuff is more like filler, but, again, I'm not sure. The best guidance I can offer is that if you cut the plastic with an abrasive style cutting wheel and it kind of "melts" as it cuts, it will have a better chance of bonding with these adhesives than if it "dusts."