996 home made RMS installation tool.
 

This tool is to help install your IMS bearing straight

What was used?
A piece of 1/2 oak, PVC from the electrical isle from Lowes, (Get item number from Pix), some instant glue, instant glue accelerator, and some Aircraft grade ply from the local radio control hobby shop.

My tool got a bit messy because it was a prototype and my band saw was not in reach and I couldn't cut the 1/2 oak with my scroll saw. So instead of cutting it to fit the PVC I had to just cut a square block.

Why do you need this? The problem is, the seal is a problem child when it comes to leaking. Your best hope at keeping it form leaking is to make sure it goes in straight and it seated straight. You have to take your measurements from the end of the crank to the seal because the case is not even all the way around. From the end of the crank to the seal is to be about 14mm.

The seal also has no "back rest" you can actually push the seal all the way through the case. Not fun. This also makes it hard to get the seal out. The way I removed the seal was to drill a 1/8" hole in the middle of the seal. Then screw in a drywall screw and pull it out. It came out very easy this way. Take my word for it. Get off your ass and get a drill and bit.... This will take a headache job and make it a snap.

So the first thing we do it cut a piece of the 1/8" ACP to go in the PVC to form a "floor" Then glue it in with the instant glue. Since this glue will not dry fast enough for me the 3rd pix is me applying the axcelerator. OK, Not really instant glue will not dry on plastic and will not dry unless it get sandwiched between pourus materials. This drys the bead of glue.

Then we have to take some measurements and decide how far we need to build up the floor so we have 14MM from the rim to the floor.. Then figure out what combination of wood we need to build up the floor to get to our 14mm

Then measure to make sure you got your 14mm.

Then because of a lip and pin on the end of the crank you will need to hollow out some of the inside to accommodate this.

I tapped my tool on the end of the crank to make lines where I needed to hollow out..
Then I used a dermal to hollow it out.

then put in your seal and have one of these

Kyle,

I read your entire "Goin' In Alone" thread on RL yesterday... You da MAN! :bowdown:

Kyle,
Great write-up on making the RMS tool. I'm working on making one also. I was wondering how you came up with the 14mm dimension from the edge of the crankshaft to the seal. On my car that would recess the RMS seal about 3mm into the case. Is that what it's supposed to be? The service manual doesn't say how deep it has to be set in it just says to use the special Porsche tool.
Thanks,
Dan

Sorry I missed this

14MM was given to me from an engine builder. However, when you replace the seal you are actually NOT to put it back exactly where it was. Something to do with the old seal making a low spot on the crank. I was told some, put it further in and some let it a little further out.

Also buy your seal from the dealer. I dont want to type long detail of how I know, it had to do with a snow storm.. But the local parts houses are supplying OLD STYLE seals.

You can tell at first sight if your new seal is the new one. The old one has round dimples all the way around. The new one has rectangle dimples all the way around. You will know exactly what I mean when you see them

Hi i have read you post with great interest and have a question if you don't mind. The coupling is stamped 3" (75mm here in Uk) i don't have the coupling but I assume the end you are puting the seal in is a fair bit bigger? as the OD of the seal is 105mm just over 4" ? sorry without the coupling it's a bit difficult for my dumb brain to visualise. Thanks.

Laurence.

Very crazy we happened on this page on the same day. I am rebuilding my custom RMS tool based on Kyle's design.

I was just literally taking measurements.

Basically, the business end of the 3" PVC coupler has an outside diameter of 100mm and and inside diameter of 89mm. 3" PVC pipe has an outside diameter of 3.5" (appx 89mm).

The key here is you need a COUPLER, not a section of pipe. The part shown in Kyles picture is a PVC coupler that reduces from 3" down to 2" (but again those are pipe size measurements).

Hope the above makes sense. :smash:

This works out perfectly for the seal which is 85mm x 105mm.

It works exceedingly well. Trust me I've used it.

I'm reworking my tool because I want to use M10 bolts to draw the seal in this time instead of tapping it in gently with a mallot.

Cheers,

-logray

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/231/img1788ym.jpg

EDIT 12/19/12: that stop is 14mm from the outer edge of the RMS tool (thus stopping when it hits the crank nose), inserting the RMS to the correct depth. Also I reworked the tool a little bit. The stop became a flat PVC pipe cap instead of the open piece you see above (pic 2).

Added bolts to draw the RMS in instead of using a mallot. The bolts are M10x100mmx1.0. Any length would work and you can just adjust the final length using some washers like I did.

Same specs as above, just added the two bolts that thread into the crankshaft flywheel threads. Worked great! Here is a pic of what that looks like:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C...2/IMG_4759.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-K...-25-35_842.jpg